Yellowwolf rockin "the gap" on an 1800! YouTube- deals gap on a goldwing/gl1800 by yellow wolf dragons tail
Well I have finally decided to bite the bullet and trade my FXSTC for a new Honda Gold Wing. My reasoning is this: I'm a bit too old to be riding around on this noisy bike all the time and hanging out with a bunch of rebel like people who really haven't grown up yet and all they want to do is ride around with leather jackets and loud annoying motorcycles that constantly break down acting 1/2 their age. I find the nice smooth quiet engine in a Honda to be far superior and more reliable than anything Harley Davidson has made yet. Plus I don't have to fit in with a bunch of poser jerks who think they are badass types when in reality most of them couldn't whip a flea. SO I am moving on to the "real world" of motorcycling where you don't have to be an idiot all the time....goodbye to all of you!!!!<!-- google_ad_section_end --> Oh yea April Fools day to you
The bolt is highly unlikely to be aluminum (quite possibly stainless.) There are cam type stud pullers that will work if you have access. If no access, cut the head off since it is already ruined (carefully, of course, so you don't gouge the head.) After the head is off, you should be able to get hold of the remaining bolt stem. Use some penetrating oil around the bolt where it goes into the cylinder wall, a couple taps on the end, and if you are lucky, out she comes. You can also try heating (go easy, you could warp something if you hurry it) the cylinder around the bolt AFTER the head is off and after the penetrant has a couple chances to work. (Could also be that the last wrench used loctite, heat will help with that.) Aluminum (as you know) doesn't like torque, and is apt to strip out. Then you are into helicoils. If it ain't a bolt, it is a nut on a stud, very often the case. Cut the nut carefully so you don't bugger the threads on the stud. (But you knew that --) Dunno what you are really dealing with, tried to cover the common cases.
Thanks for your help Ghrit. Is it possible that if I put back in some of the other head bolts it will allow the stuck bolt to break loose? "Aluminum (as you know) doesn't like torque," Ugh that is why I'm in this mess. two of the head bolts were previously stripped out on it and already helicoiled, and were apparently loose when I got it. I got it running after purchase but oil started sputtering out of where the loose head cover bolts were and now too low compression. So I took the top off and I'm replacing the "head"(part with camshaft and valves on it), since it's got the stripped out bolt holes. tapping it didn't work. It's just a little 250 cc dirt bike that I'm going to convert to on/off road.
I'd suggest a new cylinder as a fast way to get 'er done. I'm assuming that there are only 4 head bolts to begin with, that leaves 3 done up makeshift if you continue. So far as an on road conversion goes, you will spend a lot of time sorting out the on-road requirements regarding lighting and so forth to get it past a registration inspection. Might wind up over taxing the charging system. I'm shooting blind here. What is it? Maybe can look it up on the web and make better sense of it.
85 Honda XR250. Going to use the 85 XL250 wiring harness, which is a street legal bike I've got a replacement head already, that's what I'm swapping out. I'm almost inclined to scrap the motor and go electric or better just get a KLR.
you keep saying "head cover" is it the "valve cover" the thin aluminum cover that covers the cam and valves? shouldn't have anything to do with "too low compression" if you've got alot of crankcase pressure up there there's something else wrong ( i.e. ringsaredone and the "breather" in the cover is blocked up). Cylinder pressure(from combustion), should stay above the rings and below the valves. oh yeah and you're gonna need a title to license it alot of old stripped enduros get sold as "dirt bikes" and the title if there ever was one is long gone.
I'm going to test ride a victory vision tomorrow weather permitting...A very polarising bike. the looks are startling but grow on you after abit (but the engineering,comfort and performance are solid): American designedandmade 106" 50 degree v twin 6speed...rode a gl1800 'wing last week..
ok here is a pic of the problem. That dirty little bolt by the spark plug hole. 2 of the silver bolt holes are stripped and I'm replacing the part that's stripped, I think it's the head. I can't wait to try to get the valve springs off that is going to be fun on the bun. Thanks for your help guys.
What I see looks like there is a nut adjacent to the spark plug hole. If that is the target du jour, I'd dremel it off trying to not damage the stud. You can rent or buy several flavors of nut splitters that should do for it. Not much point to drilling the stud if you can save it without damage, there is no need to pull the stud. If it is indeed a bolt, you could dremel the head off, and still leave enough to grab with a cam type extractor when the head is out of the way. Renting a valve spring compressor is the ONLY way to fly, and make double damn sure you don't lose the cotters, they LOVE to hide in inaccessible places. Don't ask. (The little pair of semi circular tapered wedges that hold the spring retainer on.)
So thats really a head bolt. Looks like a bolt not a nut on a stud. holding the head to the cylinder, typically those are long To use an "ez- out"(sp ?) you would center punch a dimple as close to the center of the bolt axis as possible and carefully drill the proper sized hole for your"ezout" the idea in to miss the threads.andcenter the bolt axis; thenyou tap the ex zout in with a smalhammer andputa wrench on it it bites into the hole when turned ccw. if you drill; off center,you are not applying an even toruque to the fastener ,the ezout will break if the ez out breaks( they are super hard to bite into steel) (which means they are super brittle!)they usually break off dead flush in your carefully-centered drilledhole. they are harder than chinese arithmetric mortal drill bits are softer and won't even scratch 'em. Go sit down have a beer, cuss, and throw a wrench down range. you're done with the ez-out method.(sometimes you can use a center punch and a hamer to break the remaining piece up.and get it out of your drilled hole) If you are just rying to get the head of you can drill a nicely centered hole and workup to bigger and bigger drill bits eventually you can remove the head of the bolt leave the rest in place and perhaps lift the head straight off. Like removing the head off a "pop rivet". Ghrit is correct there is a tool called a valve spring compressor,perhaps you can rent one at an auto parts place.. that is the safe way... those springs are under pretty good pressure . trapped kinetic energy waiting to be released. and the little keepers wil transit into the fourth dimension never to return (that's whereI found ghrits keepers, next to mine and under all those lost socks from the dryer). http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...ycle-xl250r-1985-cylinder-head/o/m2995sch7349
take a look at the parts involved :http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...ycle-xl250r-1985-cylinder-head/o/m2995sch7349 be centered on the axis and go slowly and carefully.
