Solar Problems

Thank you Sourdough! Here are all of the components I have on my current setup, let me if there is anything you would change:
CC: Amazon.com : Sunix 20A 12V/24V Solar Charge Controller Charge Regulator Intelligent, USB Port Display Overload Protection Temperature Compensation : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Panel: Amazon.com : WindyNation 60 Watt 60W Polycrystalline 12V 12 Volt Solar Panel Battery Charger - Boat RV Gate Off-Grid : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Wire: Amazon.com : One Pair 40 Feet Black + 40 Feet Red 12 Gauge Solar Panel Extension Cable Wire MC4 Connector : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Inverter: Amazon.com: Peak PKC0BO 400-Watt Tailgate Power Inverter: Automotive

Distance from panel to controller = 15ft
Distance from controller to battery = 1ft
Distance from battery to inverter = 3ft

 

This may be too late in the game for you, but I have switch on every single panel and battery mill and generator in my system , that way I can isolate problems and panels or batteries that are not performing .
My very first system I set up this switching along with a chalk board ,because at the time I was using used marine batteries and most of my panels than were all second hand as well .
Any battery that couldn't maintain voltage off line was turned in and eventually another became available.
It's great to have line meters both high and low amps and voltage to switch through so you know just how things are performing.
Eventually you learn that though all your panels are the same model number they are not all the same , but so long as they produce enough to show a charge in the system they are a contributor . the fact holds true with batteries as well. anomalies exist in every thing.
I have many different size panels feeding my bank. a battery or panel that fails, which is tied into the system is going to be drawing down the system unless you have a way of 1. knowing and 2. isolating it, till you can get to it.
I have gotten panels that had been removed from systems that failed and all it was , were the diodes . some however do fail because the connection in the panel it's self were sub standard from the factory .Nothing can be done for these panels short of cutting up and hacking to find a working portion that might be usable.

I have batteries that are all 6 volt deep cycle golf cart type , this gives me the option of making any combination I need for stepped up voltages. I also use 6 volts for LED lights through out the house. 12 volts for other lights and fans .
The bottom line is all things age and the numbers are not carved in stone .
If you have no way of tracking the individuals in your your system, the guess work of numbers ( what they are suppose to be ) will sour you interest .
Build with better wire than required. solid connections and switching , diodes that match the panel, and meters that are reliable so that as things age you have the best information available concerning your system.

 

I definitely see your point. And that is another advantage to these small modular setups I think. Each consists of just 1-2 battereis, 1-2 panels and of course 1 cc and inverter. So finding bad parts is much easier. Also, since the batteries are not interconnected to each other, but rather swapped back and fourth, I don't need to go through an entire bank to find a bad battery.

 

Wpmd, I would suggest going larger with your panels, perhaps in the 130 - 150 watt range. My reasoning is as follows...on cloudy or partially occluded days, you'll want the extra to top off the batteries. Also, many batteries don't do too well if all they ever see is a trickle charge. My very first experiment used a 45 watt panel and a 100 ah battery. It would keep the battery charged, but didn't provide enough power to recharge it after moderate use.
Next, I recommend going with a higher quality charge controller. MPPT would be best, but you would likely not see enough improvement to justify the added expense...until you start expanding your system and realize you are buying items that you wish you would have spent the money on the first time!
Looking at the electronics you wish to operate, a pure sine wave inverter would be better suited. Xantrex has some small-ish ones (1800w) that do ok.
Keep in mind that going the cheapest route usually isn't. When one part fails, it can cascade. Charge controller fails, ruins the battery. Inverter fails, ruins what was plugged in...and so on. Buy the best you can afford...it will help you in the long run

 

Hey, thanks, Techstar! I actually relate to your first point from previous experience.
I actually do have some alternative picked out:

CC: Amazon.com : MPPT TRACER 3215RN Solar Charge Controller 30A 12V 24V EP : Renewable Energy Charge Controllers : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Inverter: Amazon.com: Wagan EL2601 Elite 400W Pro Pure Sine Inverter: Automotive
Or kind of a middle ground between what I have and an mppt:
Amazon.com : ENZPOWER 40Amp PWM 12V 24V Auto With LCD Intelligent Solar Panel Battery Regulator Solar Charge Controller Temperature Compensation (LCD-40A) : Patio, Lawn & Garden
OR
Amazon.com: Power TechON PS1005 Pure Sine Wave Inverter (1500W Cont/3000W Peak): Automotive
(But I am concerned the 1500w may be a bit of overkill)
Another option I am looking at:

Amazon.com: AIMS Power (PWRI60012S) 600W Pure Sine Power Inverter with Cables: Electronics

Of course these alternatives would mean I have to change my wiring, right?
Oh, and wouldnt I also have to jump to a 24v system? This track wont work well for a 12v will it?
What do you think of those alternatives?

 

I've gone through several inverters...the only ones still in operation were not made in China. All of those foreign units lasted less than a year. The Xantrex was taken out of service after three years due to a major system upgrade. The Trace inverters now have been running along trouble-free for a couple years.

If you are serious about a reliable solar system, stay away from the Chinese pieces. It just isn't worth the aggravation of replacing stuff on a regular basis.

This probably isn't what you want to hear, as the prices are not even comparable...but as the saying goes, "buy once, cry once."

 

I like and use Xantrex equipment and will heartily agree you get what you pay for....
Using a small sinewave inverter for all your small electronics is a good option leaving a large one for heavy loads (Xantrex is a good inverter with low standby drain) .
Best operating overall is at 1/3 to 1/2 rating of inverter YMMV.
Batteries are best charged with a tristate charger.... Big charge rate for most of cycle tapering off to light charge for last 10 to 20 %, lastly a keep alive level to take up any loads applied. Charge rate for initial charge should be at least 1/10 of battery capacity IE: 100ah should be charged at 10 amp rate for initial charging in morning (up to 1/5 or 20 amps for this example). If you have 240ah of battery you should be able to generate 24 amps for charging.... Soooo 12 X 24 = 288 watts min (better yet 400watts)
Panels are now cheaper per watt as you go up in size and in quantity... with a plus of easier wiring....
With two batteries it's always nice to dump the extra current unused from the charging of one to run loads and maintain the other.... Max usage of available power. Remember you can only use as much power as you make (less any losses like taxes). Limited charge time (power daylight hours) only give so much power. 6 hours of daylight charge at 1/10 rate only charges around 50% when losses are included. That's plenty depending on how much power you use in a day and assuming no clouds...

 

Actually Techstar, that is exactly the kind of honest advice I want to hear!
I am not sure where they were made, but all over the web I have seen pretty damn good ratings on the Tracer MPPT CC and on the Power TechOn 1500w inverter. I have found very few bad reviews of either. So those I think are good options. The others I admit may not be and I really do thank you for your honesty.

 

I never heard of Xantrex, but they dont look as pricey as you make them sound. I like these ones:
Amazon.com: XANTREX 8510451 XPOWER 450 INVERTER: Automotive
Amazon.com: Xantrex 806-1206 PROwatt 600 SW Inverter: Automotive
Amazon.com: Xantrex C60 Charge Controller for Wind and Solar Generators: Patio, Lawn & Garden

 

@wpmasterdesign
Quit wasting Time & money
Xantrex is a has been , Buy a KID & spend money ONCE !!!
http://www.midnitesolar.com/pages/kid/index.php

And get the FULL specs of the panels
I run Canadian Solar 350W 37.6 VOC 30.6 VMP 8.22 ISC 7.87 IMP

Thats full specs to help , If not your going to hate solar .
This is not hard , but it's above many .

BUY Quality first !!
Sloth

 

Like I poseted in # 22,29 & 33 on this thread & still no acknowledgement
60 watts to 100 is the read.

 

True... just going by his post on what batteries purchased.... FWIW lead acid type battery. Most good chargers will have a setting for the battery being used... Follow instructions and maybe it will work out...

 

Hey Sloth, thanks for the link! I just ordered this one!
Midnite Solar The KID, 30A MPPT Charge Controller, 150V, Black
and this:
Canadian Solar CS6P-250P 250 Watt Poly Solar Panel, Black Frame

 

I was looking at an outback yesterday. I think it was like 250ish range. It is high on my list

 

Very good choice , I have 2 kids , 3 brats & 5 classics in service .
CDN solar is a the best made CN solar panels . .
Outback is better than than Magnum in the term You can do field service & replace internal boards all around the WORLD !!

Buy only once & i got some smoking deals with e-bay

You get what you pay for ,
The China crap has cost me 1800.00 USD of teaching !!!

Sloth

 

I'm using a 800 watt panels into 2 x 88 voc and 72 v at 11 ah into midnight classic , output is 40~50 amps in full sun into 4x @210 amp - 6 v golf cart batteries

Look at the150 classic it cost more but worth it

Also home Depot had grape solar 100 w panel on sale for $99

 

One Classic 150 With MNGP is only set at one voltage , Even if the panels are wonky ., the higher voltage drive the lesser towarm up more & produce less . Heat gun them & currant the Amps