Ah that's just a yearling. Should have been down in the pecan bottoms along the Brazos for the big ones.
This is a neat trick I learned from the Amish. Mark something Fragile and it gets treated like every other piece of cargo. Mark it Heavy and folks will lift it slowly to test the weight. These were all over my 11 pound box that arrived today. The box was full of glass, and not a Fragile label on it anywhere.
Inner fenders are always in the way. This is the quickest way to work with them. The little nylon strap attaches to the front license plate screw, or to a tool box or other fixed point. Holds everything out of my way and never gets tired.
I was noticing several of the new guys have pockets full of pens and screw drivers, all clipped to the pocket, with the clips ready to scratch the paint on a $100,000 Corvette. I solved that problem a couple decades ago with a simple cardboard and duct tape pocket protector with an aluminum upper lip to clip things on. No exposed clips to scratch, no worn out, tattered shirt pockets from clipping junk onto them. Every morning all my stuff is exactly where it had been in the day before and just drops into the pocket of a clean shirt. Today my beard is officially a year old. A "yeard."
Center draft hybrid lamp conversion kit. You just save the flame spreader and slide the wire through an existion hole and up the tube. Connect the wires and stuff the Cork into the center tube. When the power goes out you do these steps in reverse and light up the room with kerosene.
Since there aren't any instructions available for most old center draft lamps I see lots that have been mangled or twisted apart by folks who didn't know any better. There is a slot(s) in the upper gallery (the part with the prongs that holds the chimney) of Rayo and most other center draft lamps that are intended to hold the gallery up, with the chimney and possibly the shade still in place, for lighting. I have not seen this demonstrated on any You-tube videos or read of it in any books. They all start with the chimney and shade removed. There is an easier way... if the lamp is assembled correctly. The gallery with the chimney in place should lift straight up about 3/4" and then turn freely counter-clockwise until it stops. It will rest on the pin(s) in this position for lighting. As a side note, I prefer shades that are supported below the burner to make this lighting sequence easier/safer. Lots of electrified lamps had the shade moved higher, since the bulb stuck up higher than the flame had. This is fine when you're flicking a switch. It's heavy when you have to lift the shade with the gallery. The gallery can then be rotated clockwise until it drops down onto the burner. No more twisting is needed, and will cause damage. That terribly weak blue flame is the result of a failed experiment with this poor test Rayo running on denatured alcohol. It was the most spectacular lamp failure I've ever seen... making almost zero usable light.
Saw on utube , a comedian got drunk at a bar ,, called AAA to tow his truck home , said t was broke down . The guy got to sit and drink more at the bar waiting on the lift . Cheaper than an Uber .
Engine diagnosis magic. With the exhaust fan pulling air through the intake you can hear a bad valve while turning the engine by hand with the intake off.
The Amish taught me this trick. Makes the hanger rod on a lamp much more efficient. Now it doesn't need a hook to be hung up. It can hang on a rope, hook over a branch, or slip into a hole in metal framing. I call it the Amish twist.