Over-rated Buck knives

I am bummed I lost my almost forty year old 110.

 

AD1 - u said it best 50 years ago there were only a few knife makers. Now Buck can not keep up with manufacturing (hand made is dead), example: schrade knives closed its doors in 2003. The schrade knife today is really (taylor brand) not. Old schrade made old timer, uncle hendry (uncle hendry had a lost protection can you believe that). To me, American made go to knife is Gerber or SOG. Here is a short list of brand that the name was bought.
1. Schrade (is taylor brand)
2. Winchester (has to do with the gun
3. Smith and wesson (again has nothing to with the gun make)
The knife maker just bought the name.

 

I've had a Buck 119 since the 80's. I can't get a decent edge on it either. That's not saying much though. When I try to sharpen any knife, it ends up worse than when I started.

 

If you use a grinder to sharpen knives, you had best have a light touch, or you can damage the heat treat/ temper of the steel if it gets too hot.
However, I know a chrome polisher in California who could put an edge on ANYTHING sharp enough to shave with, by using a buffing wheel, and metal polish. He did so as a sideline from his main business of polishing all those shiny bits people require for all those showcars, boats, bikes, ect.

 

I'll keep my USA made Buck knives.
Thank You

 

No, not grit, but heat. The finer the grit the better the edge, but heat will damage the metal structure of that edge. A light touch will do nicely, while bearing down will cause destruction. Heat will both improve or destroy metal depending upon use.

 

I am the first to admit I am not an expert, but my experience (all I have since I have never studied metallurgy) has taught me that the biggest factors in avoiding overheating is the speed of the wheel and the amount of time it is against the wheel between "rests". I have a wheel on my bench powered by a motor from a rotisserie with a fine grain wheel and a removable leather cover. I can't explain the science, but it has worked well for me for many years...YMMV

 

Correct, you don't let the metal approach the temp that would damage the temper. (A light touch)
@Bear could quote the metallurgy but the basics are you need a surface hard enough to take and keep a fine edge, but a core soft enough to not be brittle. It is not the same metal throughout, but a scientific altering of the metal's structure, in different ways at different points. Heat is one of these processes, and heat can destroy it as well.

 

What is wanted for knives is a differential heat treat. The edge is fully hardened and the spine is drawn back or made softer.

 

Unfortunately, some manufacturers have moved operations over-seas, and quality suffered as a result. Some also have part of their line, usually those items at a lower price point, made over-seas while continuing to make the balance here in the US. One can usually see the difference, which is why I tend to purchase the ones made here, regardless of brand.

In my 30+ years of experience with Buck knives, they have never failed me. This includes a couple of 110s, a 119, and a handful of assorted smaller pocket knives. All tools have a specific purpose, and I choose the one I will use accordingly. This choice is made daily, dependant on what is planned for the day.

On any given day, I will have three knives on my person: the tiny six tool swiss army knife, for cleaning fingernails, tightening a small screw, etc. My pocket-clipped folder, which right now, is a Kershaw Blur. Assisted opening is lightening quick....opens with authority, blade is a tanto. Lastly is the fixed blade. Lately this happens to be the Buck Reaper model...a US made, 6in blade of razor sharp beauty.

I guess my point to all of this is this: our opinions are usually formed from experience or first hand knowledge, and therfore valuable to us, and maybe others. It's not right or wrong, just what we know to be true. Continue to choose your tools based on your needs and wants. Most importantly: take care of your tools and they will serve you well.

Edit: A note on sharpening
Some blades, either by design or material, will take an edge more readily than others. Regardless, it is much easier to maintain and edge than it is to restore one.

 

Buck hasn't made a good fixed blade knife since the 60s.

 

Yup, that's the only one that is really good.

Let me know if you don't find yours, I'll send you my spare.

Still and all I prefer a small fixed blade Bagwell.

 

First I'd like to address the thickness issue. I own a Cold Steel Trailmaster that is 5/16 thick and sharp as any razor
.
Next the issue with Bucks just not taking a good edge. From 1981 to 1992 Buck used 425M which (in my opinion, is the same as one of the most worthless steels out there :440A) It will take a somewhat decent edge and hold it for about one usage. In 1993 Buck changed to 420HC (a good steel used by many of the big name makers). And they now employ one of the best Heat Treaters in the Industry, Paul Farner, who took over in 2010 but had the advantage of using the technology conceived by Master Heat Treater, Paul Bos (who is currently a Buck consultant).
In short, I think some Buck Knives are decent knives and some are pure crap.

P.S. I hate Buck Knives and wouldn't own one if you paid me to take it.
For me.....Long Live ESEE, MORA and CONDOR.........

 

Got a Buck 110 I have had for over 30yrs. Tossed it into the toolbox about 6 years ago and forgot about it until the other day. Don't know what got on/in(WD-40 maybe or some other solvent) it, but now the blade is pitted to death!! Useless knife unless Buck still honors their lifetime guarantee.

 

Let us know what Buck says.

 

I have quite a few Buck knives. Here are 3 110's from different periods. The one on top is from the mid 70's, the one in the middle is a safety award from the mid 80's, (Buck just replaced the worn down blade) and the one on the bottom I purchased a couple of years ago. I EDC the newest one as it's much easier to put an edge on. Granted, it doesn't retain it's edge like the older models, but it will do anything I ask of it. I have always been a fan of Buck Knives and always will be.

 

I have two 110's from the mid 70's and they are good knives. Not as strong as fixed blade knives though.

I prefer Kabars and any Bowie made from good tough steel.

Jim

 

I have a 119 that I acquired in the 70's and like the OP had a difficult time sharpening. Once sharp it has held a great edge. It is a heavy duty blade and not one I carry often, but gets the job done when needed. As for ease of sharpening, I have recently gotten a Ken Onion Worksharp and have not found a blade that I cannot get a razor edge on. Once the edge is set, all you need is a couple of quick pulls with the polishing belt and your back in business.