Need help with quick install of wood stove

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Motomom34, Nov 1, 2014.


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  1. kckndrgn

    kckndrgn Monkey+++ Moderator Emeritus Founding Member

    Having just installed a wood stove in my hunting/vacation cabin, I just went through a fair bit of this. Every stove is different on clearances and you must follow those clearances, to a point. Some stoves allow for just inches from a wall or combustible material, while others require feet.

    This is the stove we installed
    [​IMG]

    Basically it "requires" 36" of clearance from any combustible wall/material. And even though the closest wall too it will be faced in brick and concrete backer board, it's still considered a combustible wall due to the 2x4 frame.
    We used the standard black pipe (single wall) up to the "cathedral ceiling" adapter which has a double wall pipe in it. The adapter extends just through the roof where we have the rain shield and another 3' section of double wall pipe with a rain cap. Since we are in a wooded area and there was no spark arrester in the cap, I took a piece of expanded metal and rolled it up and put in the pipe. Not that it was really needed, but just an extra precaution.
    As for the stove, well it sucks. Loaded up with dampers closed it burned out, completely in about 2.5 hours. There were just so many "leaks" in the construction that you couldn't restrict the air flow that well. The top plate (where the "lids" are) was warped and I could see into the fire box. I've since sealed the top plate (not the little round plates but the whole top that is/was movable) to the body, this helped tremendously with the burn time. There are a few more gaps I'm going to fix as well so that hopefully I can get a good steady burn, instead of a quick hot burn.
     
    Yard Dart likes this.
  2. BTPost

    BTPost Stumpy Old Fart,Deadman Walking, Snow Monkey Moderator

    @kckndrgn If you modify the WoodBurner with a small Outside Air feed to the FireBox, you will increase the effective energy Transfer from Heat into the Room. what I did on my Cabin WoodBurner was to install a 3" Air Intake with a Flapper Damper, and then connected a Dryer Outlet Hose that went down thru the Floor, and has a ScreenDoor Screen, over the end to keep the Bugs, and vermin out. This allows the Firebox to use Outside air for burning rather than using Room Air and creating InRoom Low Pressure, that draws Drafts thru every crack and flaw in the Room Insulation. It also doesn't allow local around Stove Room Air, and resultant Heat, to be used to burn the Wood, and go up the Stack, which is a big Loss of Efficiency.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 13, 2015
    Yard Dart and Dunerunner like this.
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