Help with my bug out camper

Thanks for all the replies everyone!

Yes it has a propane frig. Also can use AC power.

Saturday I installed the new battery in the front storage compartment temporarily. Also hooked up the charge controller and solar panel. None of it installed permanently yet. I just wanted to test the system out. Only solar experience I have is at the bol. Just used a small 5 watt panel to keep 2 old car batteries charged between visits. No charge controller. If the volts dropped to far during my stay I would plug a solar panel directly into one during the day. You wouldn't believe how long those batteries lasted before they both finally died. Although I never did use them much. Vacuum cleaner through an inverter for a few minutes, small radio throughout the day and small portable DVD player at night.

Here's the battery and controller I currently am using.

Yes I do have a 7 pin plug on the camper. From the info I'm getting the charging rate isn't very good using it. Like the idea on using a voltage regulator and isolator.

The current battery install is working much better than the original setup. I'm thinking someone has messed with the wiring before. The positive lead from the old battery location appears to be way to thin. After I ran a new one the inside monitor panel showed a much better current being supplied to it. Also noticed the 7 pin connector wires aren't all connected under the camper. Just hope it doesn't mean a big problem.

I haven't addressed the tool situation yet. The camper will stay parked by the side of my home unless we're using it. I'm not too worried about people breaking into it. I do have security measures in place.

No co or smoke detector yet. It's on the list.

I did check the furnace Sunday and made sure it ran on 12 volt also. I've read complaints about batteries not lasting long enough to run the furnace fan for more than a day or two. Something I need to figure out.

 

Mechanic at the local camper place was explaining the battery thing to me. He suggested always unplugging the camper when not driving and also tried to sell me a solenoid to install under the hood which I believe automatically disconnects the vehicle power from the camper.
I have repaired, adjusted and repacked all 4 wheel hubs. Haven't tested the brakes yet.
Still need to buy and install a brake controller on my suburban.

 

My old trailer had a front compartment that opened both outside and by raising a seat. I caulked the inside closed and placed 2 batteries in it. It also had a panel inside that made 12 volts fro shore power for lights, fridge (when running it on 12 volts) and furnace blower. This same panel also charged the house batteries automatically when connected to shore power, but it was far from an intelligent charger.
Do a real world test to see how much your current solar set up will replace after usage. I had a 30 watt battery charging panel from one of the marine supply places that would keep the batteries charged up after using lights at night, but fell short when using the furnace. I always used the fridge on propane or shore power.
My charging power from the Ford truck was fed with a 10 amp fuse and only connected when the key was on (factory set up.) It would usually have the batteries topped up after around 20 minutes of travel.
Great job on the restoration. I have another on my radar, but I'm holding out for a fiberglass "egg" camper.

 

Does it have trailer brakes?
I know trailer brakes seem expensive but they really aren't squat compared to not being able to stop.
Consider the possibility that you may over load it up to the windows bugging out.

 

Yes it has brakes. Haven't tested them yet

 

Good advice. A better solution and much cheaper is to visit your local Napa parts store of Big Rig parts house and get a semi trailer lift gate pig tail and matching female receptacles, install and wire one to the tow rig and one on the trailer, simply plug in the pig tail and your tow rig will power the trailer. You can also wire in a battery isolator ( a load sensing Marine unit works best) and you don't have to unplug your tow rig. While your getting the parts, you can also pick up an air hose bunji to hold your electricals to the trailer so they don't drag on the ground, and keeps things nice and organized for ya! While your in the trailers breaks, replace the hub dust caps with "Bearing Buddies" and give them a shot of grease every few hundred miles!

 

My trailer dosnt have brakes, so it's never been a problem for me. I crawl under and wipe up the small amount that squeezes out. My bigger trailers and my boat are different, they run in oil, not grease, so I hadn't had issues unless a seal goes out!

 

Im not as mechanical as evveryone else but from experience i will tell you if you replace the tires... go get goo steel belted truck tires. The 'RV' and 'trailer' tires are very poor in design and longevity. nothing worse than changing a trailer tire on the side of a busy road. Speaking from experience, better to spend money on good tires and you need that 4 way lug wrench because trailer tire lugs are usually a different size than your vehicle's

I would also suggest spending a couple of long weekends camping. Nothing shakes down a trailer like a trip, get a little book and make a list of needs and wants for your trailer as you camp out.

for the beds, suggestion you get some cheap thermal pading fo under the beds if you live in a coal climate and you need something to block the bottom part of the trailer if you are cold camping. The wind blowing under the trailer makes everything colder.

Air circulation is critical warm or cold. especially if your cooking in the trailer. there is a cover for fan vents that help with security as well... called 'fantastic fans' I loved these on my trailer.

 

Trailer tires may be a poor design but also may be the only legal tires available, depending on state.

Radial ply tires are a poor choice for trailers as they permit more sway than bias ply...no fun at highway speeds with a gusting crosswind.

54 watts of panel isn't much more than a trickle charger...for one battery. If you're going to have more batteries, figure in for more panel capacity as well.

Nice job thus far!

 

I did check that post on "solar power system for an RV". Nice setup.

I looked into truck tires for the camper. Most of what I've read said it was a bad idea. I've changed my mind. Next set I get will be different.

We're planning a family camping trip in July. I'll take it out before that. Someplace close to home for the first time.

I've looked into the roof vent covers. Think they are a great idea. Being able to leave the vent open and not worry about rain is nice. Not to mention the hail we get here.

Planning on getting egg crate foam for the beds. Didn't think about the added warmth it would provide. Thanks.

Solar panel... I'm using one now just to test it all out. Debating about mounting one larger panel on the roof for keeping the batteries topped up when not in use. Don't like the idea of making holes in my nice roof though. Not like there isn't a ton of sheet metal screws already lol. I'm not opposed to manually setting up panels outside when camping. At least that way when the hail comes I only risk losing the roof panel.

Just noticed Sam's club is having a great sale on deep cycle batteries for another 2 weeks. I'm looking for some dead ones I can use for the core charge. Recycled 4 or 5 last year. Should have hung on to them.

 

I'll buy that! I really don't want to mount anything up there. When it's not being used I'd still need to keep a panel set up though.

 

You could make an awning that mounts on the opposite side of the door for your solar panels .
If you do the engineering right it can be articulated even to flat or above the roof to reach the sun's exposure .
Personally I'd do both awning and on the trailer roof seeing the solar panel will out last the roof especially in the summer heat.
I'm planning an awning on my shop trailer both for comfort and added solar exposure .

 

That's a good idea. I still need to mount a smaller panel somewhere just for trickle charging