Basic cabin power: generator + batteries + inverter?

nomenclature is not always correct .
Edited , not trying to start a pissing match as posted.

 

Since you want to split hairs, that's not a transformer, it's just a glorified voltage regulator with numerous points of failure...and is that a mechanical adjust I see there? It's also very inefficient as evidenced by the heat-sink mounted device. Another Rube Goldberg adventure.

I have no wisdom for anyone whose idea of "KISS" is using ten parts when two will do.

The original post was a simple problem and I offered a simple, no frills answer that will actually work. I'm done with this pissing match. Best of luck, everyone.

 

I think I would turn that pier into a boat house, mount the panels to the roof, flush, and add folding security shutters over them for when I was gone. Batteries ,inverters, and all could be inside the boat house (locked up, and short run wired), and just add one AC leg to the cabin. (Buried). .any heat problems could easily be heat sinked to the water. And a secure boathouse would not be out of place, or even unusual. Wall mounted solar panels would be an added power bonus as they pick up the reflection off the water as well, but those I would have on quick release mountings and stored inside when gone.

 

OK, this has become quite a discussion and honestly much of it is over my head.

For the sake of simplicity, for recreational use, would I be better just to set up a battery bank and sine wave inverter and charge the batteries with my Honda eu2000i when required?

 

That would be a Iota 15 amp charger rated at 1800 watts for that Honda maxed out. 2000w is surge . Expensive battery charger but won't damage the battery's, honda would need to run daily to replenish power to keep the battery's DOD less than new set every summer. Your sine wave inverter Capt you posted , do you have this already & if so what size and make ?
Best is to tell us what power will be used for ? Toaster ? AC ? Hair driers are all huge power HOGS while led lighting , radios , ways to charge items from the battery bank (flashlights etc) with a small 300 sure-sine from morning star that also has a sleep mode (I have 2 units) are quite good and are low draw.
Nothing wrong with the Honda , but you will need to feed it fuel daily , while using it as backup for the solar(week of rain) or when needing larger amounts of power ( drills & saws) .24 or 48 Volts would be a good idea if the majority of loads are 120 VAC. In general 12 VDC loads should be avoided. If they are still necessary consider supplying them with a power supply or converter (if close to the batteries).
What are you thinking of powering Capt.

Sloth

 

We've been going to an off-grid cabin for 37 years now - no power, just propane appliances, lighting and proper plumbing. So realistically my power "needs" will be minimal. We can cook over a fire or using a propane stove or BBQ, wife is low maintenance (particularly at the cabin) so no hair dryers or such required.

Power on batteries feeding the outlets without having to start the generator would be more of a convenience than a need - for things like lighting in the evening, music, running a couple of small fans when it's really hot, that kind of thing.

We'll only be spending a 3-4 nights max there for the foreseeable future, maybe longer when I retire (I'm 42).

 

I have stayed at a cabin like that also , that I call "On Golden Pond " McKellar of Parry Sound ONT.
Propane cooking or the BBq in real hot days was nice , night lighting wasn't . My choice was 12 V LED lighting , fans in 12v also. Using Buck Converter's if I need power greater than 12 volt to charge my laptop (18-20v) . Buck Converter is not a transformer but a converter that is wasteful, but in high sun days & in summer you should be full & in float by 13:00 , meaning the rest of sun power is not stored (if built correctly)..

Just going off the first picture , the cabin looks like 20 X 20 with a loft ? Out house ? And now rereading post 1 , you have the cabin wired for ? 120V ac using NMD14-2 .. If so then you might as well stay with AC power . Much less line loss over 12 volts.
Sloth

Edit Add : here is a HUGE EYE opener : China Installs Equivalent of Australia's Total Solar Capacity — In Six Months

Im slowing adding 305W Canadian Panels , another four this month.

 

^actually the cabin is roughly 12'x8', to stay under the "no permit" requirements.

What we lack in footprint we made up for in height though, and our useable space is almost doubled with a full loft.

 

I have 40 6Volt Batteries that I need to wire to a 48 Volt.I also have a Grid Tie System with Wind and Solar.I got 5 Charge Controllers for 5 Wind Turbines,with 30 Solar Panels.How do i wire all 40 Batteries and keep 48 Volts configuration.

 

Fixed it for you.

 

It was right the first time...2 volts per cell, not per battery.

 

i stand corrected, i misread that.

 

Hello friend have you got the power system for your cabin or still working on? I do need your help so hope you will reply soon..

 

We've decided to go without power for the time being, other than generator when required - to determine exactly how much power we need and when.

 

for what its worth, although the voltage drop in DC circuits is pretty significant, the drop in AC circuits seems to be a lot less. Although we all know how big battery cables have to be just to deliver cranking amps a few feet to a starting motor; I have, on my property a 1000 foot run of two-strand 10 gage wire which delivers 10 amps of 110V AC with about 10% voltage drop; quite acceptable for most any use.

 

SO buy a Kill-a-watt unit , AND RECORD info , then make a better decision . Sales folks hate me when I test out there demos ,, WE (as in North America ) are so far behind the real quality appliances .