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Here is a new kit for you
The Back Pocket Soldering Kit

 

All kidding aside nowadays it's pretty much like the Ford/Chevy debate both will get the job done. Stick welding is a lot more specialized than many think. I run the old Lincoln SA200 more commonly known as the pipeliner. It was designed to do just that and even to this day it excels at it. It is a DC generator type which is best for pipe IMO because of the "digging" factor of DC and 5P+ rod. The majority of new ones are AC alternator types. The AC welders run a smoother LO-HI bead esp on structural steel. I have run miles of pipe with the Miller Bobcat running on propane esp in plants that won't let you run gas or diesel. Miller makes a great MIG and Tig machine. I have a great little Miller MIG in the shop. My Pipeliner does great as a scratch start TIG for carbon and SS pipe, but has a hard time getting low enough to TIG anything thinner than .065. I have two dedicated TIG machines here, one is a 110/220v that I use for gun work and the other is an old Linde, that with a liquid cooled torch and the right gas will weld .375 wall or thicker with multiple passes. Both of these machines can be turned down enough to weld Aluminum soda cans.

Not sure what a good gaming computer costs, but to replace my pipeliner new would cost me 20k, a new Miller Bobcat 5k.

 

Would be nice to have an expensive welder and they are worth every penny you pay for them, but a bird in hand, used $200 welder and burning rod, is worth far more than saving up for a $2,000 welder some time in the future, bird in the bush. Just my opinion, yours may differ.

 

Nothing wrong with the old tombstone type garage welders-esp the older ones with copper windings. With enough lead to reach a person can weld most anything with them. You can even set them up for scratch start TIG. If one is AC/DC and you can find a cheap usedHigh Freq unit, you can TIG aluminum with them.

 

Day 2 beads. The shiny ones. Room for improvement.

 

Janitor vs Oxy/Acetylene torches circa 1987. I was a student during this incident but not present during the explosion. It happened at night.

 

Looks like you need a few more amps and let the edges soak a bit longer. Also, before you break arc at the end pause a sec and fill yer tail-helps prevent cracking. I've seen a lot worse looking welds than those bud!

 

Yeah. The instructor set my amps and I felt like it was too low. I just went with it. I’m starting to regain a little at a time. Thanks.

 

I have 12 more Fridays for my refresher and then I can decide if more are necessary. I’m most likely going to start MIG next class.

 

If I were you I'd stay with the stick for a couple more weeks. This is me NOT slamming you, but coming from 35 yrs in the trade I can see where you could benefit from some more practice. Mig is a lot easier to pick up and your practice with the stick will actually help you when you switch to mig.
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Good plan. I’m mostly on my own to brush up how I see fit. Thanks.

 

This is from day 3. Lower part. My beads used to have a more rounded shape years ago. I figured Tully Mars could explain why. This is 6011. 1/8th inch. Murica!

 

I think the "roundness" you're thinking of often times comes from running a bead on a plate by itself. They tend to do that more that way. Heat affects how flat your bead will lay as well as pulling instead of pushing in many cases. The example above is a fillet weld that you welded from left to right on all three passes. It looks as though you are pushing the weld in the direction of travel-nothing wrong with that most of the time. If you want your weld to round or hump up more drag the rod instead of pushing it.
BTW, the way you multi passed that fillet is EXACTLY how it should look. Each pass overlaps the previous one 50%. All I really see "wrong" is that you could practice on making your oscillations more even. Mainly this comes with practice. I have helped many guys smooth this out by getting them to count as they are welding. 1,2,3 1,2,3 and so on. Pretty soon you pick up the rhythm and do it without thinking about it. NOT KNOCKING YOUR WORK Bro. It's coming along nicely.

 

Good idea. Counting to three. Thanks.

 

Update. This is 10 passes with 6010. 1/8th inch. I did the 123 trick thanks to TullyMars. My re-starting is way better than it was thanks to the instructor. I’d forgotten how to do it.

 

Looking good Bro!
You need to start trying some 7018 now

 

Good plan. Next week I’ll start using 7018. I used to be able to lay it down pretty good. Not so good vertical though.

 

If I may suggest, start out with 3/32" rod if you have it. Less iron to control esp on the out of position welds. Play with that then move up to 8's and when you start feeling cocky jump up to 5/32" or 3/16" There are several weaves guys use during vertical welds. Most inspectors do not like to see a wide weave, they prefer stringers or a multi pass cap. Personally I do as well. I think it looks cleaner. Keep yer rod pointed a bit up hill or at a 90 to the work piece. I like running at a 90 to about 22 degrees off of 90. Once your puddle is established try a using a "Z" pattern working your way up. Keep it tight and you have to move a bit faster than you may feel comfortable at first. Pay attention to the edges of the puddle. As soon as its soaked in move to the other side. Don't worry about the middle, it will take care of it's self. Heat is less forgiving here than in the flat position. When running multi pass welds don't be surprised if you have to turn your machine down a bit before you cap. Esp just starting out and on thinner stuff. All that heat will soak in. The biggest thing that nails guys running verts is undercut. That's why you want to let the puddle soak in on the edges for a bit and watch your heat. Why do you think all of us rig hands have those remotes sitting right beside us?