I have about exhausted all ideas so I am turning here for suggestions/recommendations. When I purchased my house 3 years ago, it came with an lovely old propane cooking range, all stainless steel, built to last a lifetime. The problem is the oven regulator/safety valve is stuck and will not allow the pilot light to be lit. I had a technician look at it to confirm my suspicions and he concurred. The problem is one cannot get parts for it anymore. I am talking to the company which owns them now (in New Zealand) but they really cannot even figure out which model it is, given their new system, even though I have the old model number and serial number. I am looking for suggestions because I have grown very fond of this old range. It's grates are so heavy that 2 of them probably weigh more than a completely new range. It was extremely expensive in its day and if I was to replace it with something the same today the cost would be $5000-$8000. I love it because it is so basic and easy to repair...if one can get parts. I am posting a few photos. I was wondering if it might be possible to rebuild this part but not even sure about that as I've no experience with gas valves. I got to do something as we cannot go much longer without an oven so...any ideas, suggestions or opinions would be appreciated. Dynamic Cooking System (DCS) serial# 1400464, model 36-6-1CI
Yep, that particular part may be unobtainable, but there are substitutes that will work. Should not be hard to find specs. The tech you had come out should be able to line you up.
Gas valves seldom go out if your having a problem with gas getting to the burners contact the manufacturer and get a thermocouple because if it is bad it will not open the regulator if your getting gas but it won't fire that looks like a peizo igniter and that is not a problem just use matches. BUT that small line coming off looks like a line to a pilot light. I do not know your situation (that is not good ) but if this is a natural or (LP} propane gas the orifices need to be the right ones and only the manufacturer would know them in some cases they can be turned around but again you have to know. You can get the information off the stove and the manufacturer will have a handbook on their web site
The igniter is sparking good. The thermocoupler might be part of the problem but the technician said they come as a complete assembly with the regulator anyway. Nevertheless, we did cleaned it up. At first we thought that is all that was needed but the pilot won't light even when you manually press and hold that red button (that the arrow is pointing to in photo) on the regulator which manually opens the valve, the valve must be stuck inside. The regulator is sort of special since it has that manual button you manually press when lighting the pilot light. I have been in contact with the manufacturer and will call them again Tuesday but it's not looking good. Hell, they can't even match up the model. The did send me a Parts List with Diagrams for a unit they thought it was but the location of the parts on the diagram don't match with the physical location of the parts on the stove and, from what I can tell on the diagram, the regulator doesn't look the same but its detail is not very good. Reference the appliance technician I had here...I truly doubt they will go any farther if the vendor doesn't have a replacement part...and the vendor can't tell for sure what model it truly is... I did not try my propane guys or guys that repair home heating. That's an approach worth investigating. Is it possible to rebuild these things? I imagine they must have some sort of gaskets though, right? @Lancer Did you SWAG it or did you manage to cross reference it because I am having no luck cross referencing it at all.
Went with my usual technique for finding appliance parts. The vast majority of gas regulator bits are made by a very small number of manufacturers Electrolux is the primary for euro based units, although they're used by the japanese/korean manufacturers. Dcs model RGS-366 free standing, gas genuine parts http://www.appliancepartspros.com/search.aspx?model=dcs 6 burner range rgs-366ss https://www.cbw.fp.co.nz/fms/service/dcs-ranges/dcs-parts-ranges/RGB_RGS_RGSC/70066 RGS-366SS.pdf oven parts #27,28,28 perhaps. Although - gas bits are pretty standard, and if the unit has a thermocouple pilot-light interlock. The sort with a valve you have to hold while waiting for the pilot light to heat up the thermocouple. Those are used on any number of water heaters and ranges. I would second the motion of contacting a local gas appliance supply/service place. Any numbers on the device itself?
Rebuild is certainly possible, but not advised unless very familiar and can get the exact parts. Safer and (usually) cheaper by far to replace the entire assembly if you can find one, or a reasonable substitute. These things are very common. FWIW. Stoves USUALLY can be pulled out, they are USUALLY supplied by a hose. CAREFULLY check that, and if so pull it out and see if there isn't a diagram with more parts info on the back. If you are lucky, the owner's manual is still lying around that may have more hints.
@Lancer I don't know how you did it but the pdf file you sent is my range or at least very close to it. DCS couldn't even find that parts list! They sent me the RGS-366 parts list which is different and had me pulling my hair out. And, at the very least I now have a Product Code (70066) which is very close. I think mine is a bit older than the 70066 but it's close. You are my hero! And, if you get up this way (Northern Idaho) all the beer and eats are on me! Yes, I have contacted the authorize service company for these DCS ranges in my area but I don't think I am getting much joy from them. I am betting I will have to find the part myself. I will call the manufacture tomorrow. I might actually get this thing fixed!
If you can get good eyeballs on the part itself, grab any markings. Dollars to donuts it's made by Elecrolux, Wolf, or BASO.
If you don't find the part, get a commercial kitchen tech in there to retrofit a Vulcan one in. Looks the same.
YAHOO! I found the book! The wife and I are now in a finger pointing contest of who put it in its obscure location when we moved in here 3 years ago... Obviously, it wasn't me....(I hope). Anyway, it is a 'SAFETY VALVE' Part number: 13002 and sold at a few places to include amazon (which is the most expensive by $30...) Anyway, if all else fails, I can get the part and change it myself... Big THANK YOU to all! @Lancer Yep! You were right, Wolf. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQGHE7M/?tag=survivalmonke-20 ROBERTSHAW TS SAFETY Wolf 14267 5387A 705387A DCS 13002 JADE RANGE 4615200000
Glad you found your manual and 1. your wife is always right 2. if there is a question refer back to fact number 1. circular logic but it keeps the peace. I have a demand water heater when the thermocouple goes out it wont do squat. You can hold the red button and the pilot will stay on as soon as you release it it will go out and because the red button is an override it shows the thermocouple is crap and it needs replacing so it does not open the gas valve. I have not seen a unit where the thermocouple is built in and the spark ignitor is only to start the pilot you have to hold the red button for a minute or two to get it hot enough to open the valve. if the pilot burns the valve is good if the ignitor pops and fires the pilot it is good if after your SURE the line is purged the darn pilot wont stay lit, then it's the thermocouple. If this is a new hook up it can take a while to flush the line less with Natural gas but it has taken me a couple of minutes to purge the line to get the pilot to even come on so I have used a hand torch to keep on the burner so as soon as the gas gets there I can hear it light --- finally If you buy one might as well get two and tie wrap it to the back so you don't loose it because if the thermocouple is bad it's a boat anchor I have seen specialty thermocouples that have a gas sensor in the flue or a extra wire that has to be connected or again it won't fire and stay lit. I hope this makes it clear as mud because I have never written a user manual before but I hope this helps.
