Making Broadhead Arrowheads From Target Arrows and Sheet Metal

Discussion in 'Blades' started by chelloveck, Dec 14, 2015.


  1. chelloveck

    chelloveck Diabolus Causidicus

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  2. UncleMorgan

    UncleMorgan I like peeling bananas and (occasionally) people.

    Sweeeet!
     
  3. Dunerunner

    Dunerunner Brewery Monkey Moderator

    Interesting and worthy read!
     
  4. AxesAreBetter

    AxesAreBetter Monkey+++

    Very complicated and tool heavy way to make a broadhead, to my eyes. I'm sure that it will penetrate well, it's just complicated.
     
  5. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    Looks good, but a few things to mention. First, The bigger the points, the more leverage on the wooden shaft, and the more likely to break. Also, the bigger the blade, the more air it catches, and the less accurate it really is. They will plane more. They will also change the end wieght of the arrow. I would recommend the blades be drilled to lessen both effects, and fly straighter.
    Second, I see no reason for the tang to be so short. Cut the wood and tang longer, and you can double rivot for a stronger, straighter connection point.
    Third, arrow tips for bear are tiny, not huge. (I know a bow/bear hunter personally) large blades will not make it through the hide and fat to do any real damage, and you'll just piss him off. You will be more likely to die than him. There is just too much drag on impact.
    So, I would make them smaller, longer tanged, drilled to lace to reduce wieght and leave a razor edge, if you are going for large game and can not buy what tips you need.
    (Comply with your local game laws, of course. ) But go minimal, not over large. Big blades are to maximize the hole size for faster bleed out. Small blades are for penetration.
     
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  6. AxesAreBetter

    AxesAreBetter Monkey+++

    I currently like a 1"x1.5", without a tang. I've spent what I could spare over the past year trying different broadhead styles to find one that I can settle down on. Using trade points as examples. I want mine for both combat and hunting, and I have not found a production point yet that complies with that philosophy.
     
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  7. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    [​IMG]
    Take a hard look at war arrows. They were made to punch holes in leather and steel armor.
     
  8. AxesAreBetter

    AxesAreBetter Monkey+++

    Yeah, but I can't Hunt with them! I have actually done some tests with the head I have, and the ones I have made. I need to get those posted somewhere...
    With the bows I currently have operational (40 pound), there is no penetration gained on meat by switching to bodkins (NONE!!!), and only marginally better penetration on thing steel with the bodkin over the broadhead. AndI have several newer designs to test...
    I normally use a 32" 3/8" diameter poplar shaft carried loose in an arrowbag. They slide in and out without a problem, can be gotten to super fast (fastest method I've found), and they don't rattle excessively or fall out when running. Been running a Cherokee 2 feather fletch on mine, seems to shoot just where I want it to with very little paradox.
     
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  9. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    Granted. But that's because they were designed to penetrate armor not flesh. They were designed to go in hard and come out harder. They were designed to punch a hole, not Slice it. Different purpose entirely. One wounded man takes out at least three.
     
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  10. BTPost

    BTPost Stumpy Old Fart,Deadman Walking, Snow Monkey Moderator

    There was a scene on "Alaska The Last Frontier" Last Night.... Where one of the Boys built a CrossBow, as a Christmas Present for his cousin, and a made a similar BroadHead for the Bolt.... Was nicely done....
     
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  11. AxesAreBetter

    AxesAreBetter Monkey+++

    Just surprised me overall. You get at least as many archery myths as caliber debates. I get a stronger bow, it may matter then, but 1/4" of penetration with a bodkin vs 1/8" penetration with a broadhead is not enough of a difference ti switch. Haha.
     
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  12. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    And that is a very good example of why your arrows should all match in size and weight with different tips. Then just select the proper shaft for the correct job.
     
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  13. chelloveck

    chelloveck Diabolus Causidicus

    @kellory @AxesAreBetter

    That's what I like about this place...no matter what the topic, there's bound to be at least three different points of view, robustly debated. I posted the article, not so much as promoting a particular way of doing things...but as a starting point for discussion, and as an insight as to one way of improving upon a fire sharpened stick for huntin' and/or fightin'. I think I have learned as much from the discussion as from the article itself.

    In the final analysis, we live with the consequences of our choices....or die..... or starve by them. You've both given me much to think on.
     
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  14. chelloveck

    chelloveck Diabolus Causidicus

    Last edited: Dec 14, 2015
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  15. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    Why bother? Legal broads will go through even bulletproof vests.
     
  16. chelloveck

    chelloveck Diabolus Causidicus

    Broad heads cut through the fibres of soft body armour. Soft body armour is better at stopping blunt projectiles. Am not sure how broad heads fare against hard body armour inserts.
     
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  17. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

    Watch the video.
    The test would be more effective if they used ballistics gel rather than a hard mannequin. I think there's a plate of that vest.

     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 14, 2015
  18. chelloveck

    chelloveck Diabolus Causidicus


    Then of course....there is the "Arrow of Total Destruction"........

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. chelloveck

    chelloveck Diabolus Causidicus

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  20. kellory

    kellory An unemployed Jester, is nobody's fool. Banned

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