Container Home Insulation

Discussion in 'General Survival and Preparedness' started by Seacowboys, Jan 10, 2025 at 15:22.


  1. Seacowboys

    Seacowboys Senior Member Founding Member

    I have found myself with an abundance of one-trip shipping containers at my disposal and have been building them into small dwellings and offices. We've used them for bunk-housing and control rooms off-shore for a number of years. I am looking for a means of thermal insulation and am considering double-walled exterior walls filled with treated saw-dust, possibly sprayed with polymers to maintain porosity and shifting. Any experiences with structural and insulative uses of sawdust would be of some value to me. Thanks
     
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  2. SB21

    SB21 Monkey+++

    I've often thought about insulating them containers ,, I've wondered about using spray foam inside and out in the ribs,, and then put some type of siding on the outside. But wasn't real sure about the transfer of heat and cold radiating thru the metal.
    I know if had to frame any walls on the inside you could be losing space.
    I'll be interested to see what others say about this . I figure Mr Kamp may have some insight on this .
     
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  3. sec_monkey

    sec_monkey SM Security Administrator

    foam might werk [winkthumb] [winkthumb]

    sawdust aint a gud idea
     
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  4. CraftyMofo

    CraftyMofo Monkey+++

    I remember KK doing some of this on an earlier thread.
     
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  5. Ura-Ki

    Ura-Ki Grampa Monkey

    Carpet underlayment is one of the better insulating systems that doesn't take up a bunch of space! The trick is using mylar on both sides, one against the steel and one on the outside surface of the underlayment, then a ply wood or other wood or dri-wall for the interior finnish! Spray foam can also work, you want the highest density you can get, then install a vaper barrier before the finnish wall! Cannot say what sort of insulation values ether of these provide, but it's pretty good for here!
     
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  6. Seacowboys

    Seacowboys Senior Member Founding Member

    I've looked and have used the conventional, my question about using sawdust or possibly treated wood pellets, is what I am looking into before proceeding with my idea. The obvious problems of decay, mold, moisture, parasites, etc. are being scrutinized to determine if this alternative method is viable. Thanks
     
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  7. VisuTrac

    VisuTrac Ваша мать носит военные ботинки Site Supporter+++

    I've seen a product called TimberHP or TimberBatt.
    I'm trying to find a company in the UP that makes an expanding foam wood based product. You'd usually see it as a plastic bag in your ups shipment that is filled with foam and fills the box surrounding your product to protect against damage.

    EDIT: The company got bought out by CertainTeed and now makes acoustic ceiling tiles. from their wood fiber. Can't determine who bought out the packaging line. Sorry.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2025 at 9:24
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  8. Brokor

    Brokor Live Free or Cry Moderator Site Supporter+++ Founding Member

    If sawdust was compressed after being damp (like making pucks for fuel stoves) you will end up with the same R value as lumber...which isn't good. About the only time it's of any use is for burning. I don't know how you could mix it with foam/gel since that is usually sprayed, but it would need to be a 70% foam to 30% sawdust to be useful. Still not good. Perhaps tar would work. That could be fun. :eek:
     
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  9. Tempstar

    Tempstar Monkey+++

    Having been in HVAC and building envelope sciences for many years, I can not think of any convincing argument to use sawdust for insulation. Ground newspaper was once a thing but it was treated with fire retardant which also kept most insects from feeding on it. Sawdust will settle and lose effectiveness, and it will absorb moisture readily making it a very poor choice as an insulation. The most effective insulation I have seen used in a connex was 2x4 framed interior walls and a 2x6 framed ceiling filled with open cell spray foam, and this only provided a 2.0 to 4.0 R-value due to the corrugations. The ceiling got R-5 to R-6 . A glued-on foam board (2") will give an R-3 with a little plus added for the air cavity created in the corrugations.
    As with any insulation, avoid a double vapor barrier. So in a connex the walls form the vapor barrier and adding an additional one between the interior wall and the insulation will form a vapor trap.
    Another note, if spray foam or glued-on foam board is used, allow at least 10 days with the doors open for the chemicals to out-gas.
     
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  10. kissmybrass

    kissmybrass Monkey

    so i live in a bus, was not eniugh room so i got a couple connexs and have living space in them. well one. i just got them set oct.
    on framing inside. i put 2x4 in the grooves and screwed them in tgen did firing strips to mount 1/2 foam and 1/8 panels. the criling is 1" foam panels. to keep it from dripping on the ceiling i put 10 sheets of 1\2 foam board outsise and covered it with a tarp. worked great.

    IMG_20241109_184646.
     
  11. kissmybrass

    kissmybrass Monkey

    IMG_20241109_184646.

    when i did this i should have done 2x4 on the outside too. spray foam is king.i live in alaska and spray foamed my v nose trailer and van. best way to stop condensahion i have found.
     
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  12. kissmybrass

    kissmybrass Monkey

    uh no sawdust. spray foam works,, if you can afford it. putting 1/2 foam panels and a tarp stopped my ceiling from dripping.
     
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  13. kissmybrass

    kissmybrass Monkey

    man cave. tv/computer area then gun shop stuff. grow tent for,,,, 3dp and powder coat. control smell and humidity. wood stove in back. i hauled guard rail to cover them for a sod roof. still moving in.
    IMG_5877.JPG IMG_5874.JPG IMG_5873.JPG IMG_5871.JPG
     
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