I have a long history of building most or all of the stuff here myself. The House is no different , I had the open sided 30x40 12 on the eaves pole barn build in 2010 for $10,000. It became my main catch all and fix it shop where broken things went to sit until I got around to repairing them or sending them to the scrap metal pile......... Translation a 1200 sqft building full of JUNK Spring 2022 Late Spring 2022 Dug it out 1' down and refilled with 3" rock over drain tiles with a 2" topping of CA6 on top of the 3" rock Compressed it all tight before pouring the slap. Ground water is 4-6 feet down and without the thick rock base and drain tiles the slap would sink......rise........ buckle and crack all over even with the stress cuts. Summer 2022 Escape tunnel entrance is there but under 1/16th" of concrete at the time. I wanted the 1" deep rim for the trap door even with floor top and 2" wider than the tunnel entrance. So I cut 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood to size and poured the concrete over the plywood. When it was dry but not cured I tapped around where the plywood was and pulled it out and put the 1" thick oak trap door in to cover the hole flush with the concrete floor. In this situation a wire or rebar concrete was not the best option. I used fiber concrete with 3x the normal amount of fiber and a 4" thickness rather than my usual 6" thick to cut back on the weight of the slab. Works well when pouring a slab over a spot with ground water close to the surface. Slabs I poured 10-15 years ago still strong flat and not a hint of crack and over year round ground water 2-3 feet under the surface. Might be wrong but it has proven to work for me November 1 2022 Spray foam on the under roof, windows and doors all in. Started moving the tools and building materials in. Then some more building materials and more and more and then some more LOL. Then I went to work framing it all together. Izzapoo has supervised me closely! I went double and triple sistered 2x6s for the ceiling joist/rafters. The is room for a 7' tall tapering 5' on the sides tall loft down the center. The North End is going to be a 14x20 living TV, living room whatever room open to the down stairs dining living room with a rail along the open side. Framing the outer walls and room partitions went fast. Post, beams, rafters/ceiling joist much slower for me Moved more building materials in and a smaller air compressor that is less likely to get cranked up and shoot nails through 2x4s and into my hands No more building material to move in other than 40 more 2x6x14s and 6 more 6x6x8 post. I liked the look of the corrugated tin for a ceiling skin over the Kitchen/Dining/ Laundry/Bath and my office. So am running with it. Very reflective with light and heat. TODAY The Post hidey hole completed The stairway to nowhere I really needed all of those bales of insulation in the living room and still in the box truck OUT OF THE LIVING ROOM AND BOX TRUCK!!!! So I put 8x16 area of ceiling insulation and Not attached OSB down and made way to many trips up and down the stairway to nowhere toting insulation up yesterday. Now all of the rolls of R-30 and R-19 are in the loft and all of the bales of bats are in the laundry room! Looking down from the loft living whatever room to the down stairs living room from the open side. Mrs Krap thinks it looks neat and will have lots of deco options. I am thinking it looks like a real good ambush position to nab unwanted guest from as they enter causing me to fear for my life. With all of the insulation out of my way FINALLY. I can build the hearth and back wall for the new wood stove and get it up and running and ditch my diesel burning salamander! LOL I do oddball things. The bricks are 4"x16" landscape pavers and the Squares are 16x16 patio pavers. Going to use the cinder blocks as the hearth base and put the blocks sideways on the front and sides of the cinder blocks and top the cinder blocks with the squares. Then build a paver block wall under the windows and up between the windows to the ceiling. Have another couple cubes of pavers and more squares outside that I was to lazy to move inside...... and no room with the insulation Once it is all up and secure I am going to paint a couple layers of clear industrial epoxy on it to seal it up and make it real easy to keep clean. Building the hearth to raise the wood stove door up another 10" so loading the box does not involve getting on the knees and bending over as far. Went with the biggest modern stove US Stove makes and claims to heat 3200sqft at 71%-74% effiiciency (We shall see) Cost was like $1900 and after inspecting the higher end brands there is not much difference between this one and the $3000-$6000 comparable size higher end stoves. Only real differences I noted is the higher ends are wide where this one is deep and the higher end stoves steel is 1/32nd to 1/16th inch thicker and claim to have 1%-3% better efficiency. Biggest reason I went with this one is it will take 26" logs the higher end ones topped out at 22/23" logs. I have cords of 24" fire wood cut split and stacked...... I am NOT trimming it all down to fit in a more expensive stove Another reason is this one has a nice large flat top that I can still cook and perk coffee on! What I am not going to like is getting that 400+ pound beast up on the hearth by myself! Have you ever noticed that when you don't need help you have a dozen people offering to help. When you do actually need help there is not a soul to be found LOL. For the paver blocks I am going lazy. I hate mortar work so I am using loctite landscape tubes. That stuff holds better than any mortar ever will. For filling/facing the front I am going to use the black caulk gun mortar, a bit on the expensive side but takes a fraction of the time actual mortar masonry work does and looks just as good. You will never find me mixing mortar or grout unless there is absolutely no alternative! Got the next two DIY MR Cool Heat Pumps last week. Another 12k unit identical to the one in the container ($1700) for the master bedroom good size bedroom at 16x20. The other a 3 zone 9k-9k-12k 240v unit for the for the living room, kitchen and the open loft room ($4500). For my office I got a LG 12k 240V window minisplit AC/Heat unit, snagged it early last summer and think it was like $1500 at home depot. Bathroom and Laundry room will get whatever drafts into them. I am skinning the walls with 1/4" plywood screwed onto laterals across the studs and stuffing between the interior wall partitions and ceiling rafters with 6" R-19 insulation, some sound proofing and compartmentalizes every room for heat and AC. Little Krappy's Bedroom is the South Half of the loft 10'x20' will be all insulated and putting a big side slide window in the south outer wall. Will most likely get another 12k mr Cool for her room. Found Giantish Ceiling fan with 5' blades to put above the living room and a little above the open loft room. Put it together and hung it in the machine shed to test it out..... That Sucker moves some serious air up and down on high! And amazingly pulls very little electric! Had a stupid moment today! I lit the cardboard junk burn pit and was walking back to the house and had a moment of freak out! IT LOOKED LIKE THE INSIDE OF THE HOUSE WAS A INFERNO! Then I realized......... Hey dumb ass that is the reflection of the fire in the burn pit LOL. I went with really cheap windows just get them in. The windows I want and will replace these with are still 14 months out of being delivered The Cheap junky ass JWs will work until that time. My old tools keep breaking beyond repair and I have to keep buying new tools to replace them. I am loving the new Rigid Saw! I am actually liking it more than my old Dewalt. And you know the work is getting serious when I buy a new coffee pot just for the project site! LOL by the time I am done with the house 3/4th of the tools from my wood shop will be new. Next up will be my wood lathe (70 year old off brand) The drive gear broke a tooth that broke more teeth that stripped the splines on the shaft. Parts are obsolete and discontinued, I could redneck engineer it to keep working but just don't have time to mess with it right now. And a new one would be a nice upgrade to the shop. I have a lot of spindles to turn for the loft rail and the stair rail. Trying to find a new one that extends to 96" and retracts down to 24" like the old one does. Found a couple but they sure ain't cheap. It ain't a McMansion but I ain't a Mansion kind of guy 1200sq feet on the bottom and another 400sqft in the loft. Going to pour a 20x40 patio slab this coming summer in front and build a 20x40 deck on the back side. I spend 90% of my waking hours outside, I just am not a sit around inside type, never have been and hope I never am! My little Cabin worked well when it was just me and my two dogs. When Mrs Krap and 5 more dogs moved in... it got real cramped When the Cabin became a State Government Field office.......... I said screw it and moved into my Krap Kave with Poo and Pop. LOL when there are case files stacked up on the bathroom vanity..... There is no more room for Krappy and his Dogs! In the Krap Kave there was ample space for Krappy and his dogs Krappy HAteS the Covid! The State Work from home mandate forced Krappy out of his home! Ok don't get me wrong I have no problem living in my camper that used to be and still is my office. But living in a building that does not bounce when a 90 pound Izzapoo jumps out of the bed is better! Even worse when a 90 pound Izzapoo and a 80 pound PoP do synchronized floor diving from the bed! And I have jacks in the back that eliminate the bounce until they drive the jacks down into the ground via the floor diving So the total cost excluding tool purchases for the Old pole barn to New House has came in just short of $55,000 that does include the cost of the original barn. Low bid General Contractor to do it was $145,000 and would do almost none of the custom things I wanted. High bid was $165,000 and would do half the custom things I wanted. 3 bids between those two. None would start work on it until September/October 2023. I never intended to contract any of them, I just wanted to know what it would cost to have it pro contractor built. Downside is building a house even inside of a existing shell is HARD WORK and takes A LOT of time for one person to do. Upside is I can say I did this myself! And do all of the custom stuff I want inside and out. I WOULD NOT SUGGEST DOING THIS in a County with Zoning and Permits, with all of the local ordinances that come along with zoning and permits! I built one house in a Zoned and Permit County and would never do it again! I would never move into a zoned and permit area again either! You get beat to death with codes, permit cost and inspections and fees. And have to hire licensed plumbers and electricians to do the most basic things. If I want to build a pond or lake...... I build a pond or lake without hassle unless it triggers Corp of Engineers stuff which I avoid by keeping depth and dam heights below their triggers, No DNR problems because I don't block natural flow and the run off all originates from my property. Also keep it out of Fed and State EPA jurisdiction. I want to build a house or a barn or a chicken coop or a dog house...... I just start building. And wait for the tax man to figure out I built something new bigger than 10'x10' so he can come and raise my property taxes eventually. State Code is supposed to be followed but lets be for real it is optional. County the only permits required are for wells and septic systems, half the time we don't even have a environmental health inspector to inspect or issue the permits so also more or less optional. The one inspection I do care about is the Insurance inspections for newly insured structures. There are a few things they look very closely at. Wood Stove Installations being top of their list if there is one installed It better not only look pro certified installer installed but be at the level. Plumbing and Electric are next on their list and structural integrity next, then the roof and foundation. You learn the words "It was a existing structure that I made a few improvements to." Real fast. Most accept that and run with it. If you say its is new be prepared to provide documentation that a state licensed Plumber, Electrician, Wood Stove Installer, roofer and carpenter did the work. As well as blue prints. Insurance inspectors can be much worse than the zoning and permitting inspectors! I catch a break there because my insurance agent is also the insurance inspector for my insurer. With the new house being built in a existing barn, he is going to be WOW I didn't realize it had living quarters inside and no problems. If it was a new barn turned into house not already in the property report it would be a different matter entirely. Just a new Pole barn or shed about the only thing they look at is the breaker box and structural load and wind rating. Sort of a MYTH that you save a lot of money having a pole house built. Truth is you save about 30%-40% on the shell VS a stick or brick faces shell, that is where the savings ends. Everything inside the shell cost the same and in a few areas MORE depending on what you want to do. That open sided barn I had pro built in 2010 cost $10,000 now same building in 2019 would have cost $14,000. Same Building in late 2020 $33,000. I strongly suggest that if you do not have very competent Architectural Design, Carpentry, Electric and Plumbing skills that you bite the bullet and hire a general Contractor it will save you A LOT of money and headaches in the long run. We are talking about building a house not a nice little simple bug out shack. Unless you want to call a nice simple little bug out shack your house LOL my Cabin would qualify as a nice simple little bug out shack and I call it my house until the house is done. It is also excluded from my insurance because it is a nice simple little bugout shack that does not even come close to meeting insurance standards for a house The Krap Kave Kamper on the other hand is covered in the property insurance under the RV and vehicles parked on the property section. If you want to run uninsured or with general property liability insurance no problem, I would NOT advise NOT having general property liability insurance though, first idiot that comes along and end over ends their atv on your property is most likely going to sue you for everything you and and might own in the future. Think of that insurance as your prepaid Legal in that event Don't want discourage anyone but also hate seeing folks go down a rabbit hole and only finding a face full of ferrets. Property liability laws vary from state to state. I can't speak for any other state than IL. And here it is very wise to insure every kind of property even Ag Land and recreational properties even when it fenced, purple posted and decorated every 50 feet with NO TRESPASSING signs. IL Law is on the side of the idiots and criminals. There is not much more fulfilling in life than taking a raw piece of land and building your life and home on it IMO. But you have to be smart about it and plan it out in every detail. Simple mistakes can and WILL come back to haunt sometimes soon and other times years later. Research, Skills and Knowledge are everything out here. It is both smart and wise to accumulate as much knowledge and skill as you can and research everything you plan on doing, odds are high that someone else did it before you and wrote about in a manual, article, book or now days on some online venue. Good Decisions and Choices = A good and happy life! Particularly out in the rural sticks where your comfort or life may depend on making good basic simple choices and decisions. Mistakes out here are not very forgiving and closest half ass hospital is 30 minutes away and the closest semi competent hospital over a hour away. I it is a life bad emergency you get transported to one of the good hospitals 2 1/2 to 4 hours away. Just one of the many examples of the risk of living out in the very rural sticks. If I had chosen to go to a ER for the nail in the hand it would have been a hour drive to a ER that could treat it So a good skill to have among carpentry and the others is Emergency Field Medicine, not pleasant pulling a barbed nail stuck sideways into you palm out and then flushing the hole out with burny stuff. Much better than giving the nasty little bacteria a hour to reproduce infiltrate deeper and colonize the wound. Scratch that 2-3 hours because you are going to wait at the ER for 1-2 hours before getting treatment. My choice to live out here and I know and accept all of the risk involved. A whole different reality than in a town or a city in almost every way Towns and Cities have their own risk vs reward but I don't live urban or suburban so don't concern myself with life there. Just safely getting in and out of them without incident when I have to. I am as out of place in a City as a Hoodrat is out here in the sticks. Very different worlds with very different rules for almost everything. And steep learning curves to transition from one to the other.
Like your ideas and looks like a good house. Code NAZI's would not allow it here in Live free or die southern New Hampshire, nor would any bank loan on it. 6,000 sq ft mcmansion built out of used tinker toys built in a swamp on quicksand would be OK if the proper people, officials, bank, and contractors were paid and they would loan $500,000 to the proper idiot who would oh and aw about their perfect house. I wish I was being sarcastic, but I am not . Comment on the gas stove fiasco, there is a point in their madness, the sheep are building super air tight houses here with no real air exchange planned in, so their heat pumps are "efficient". They are having all kinds of air quality problems, as well as humidity and mold. God help you if you want a wood stove without an outside air source for the fire or need some form of emergency heat when the electricity goes out. Nope, off to the shelter for you my friend.
There is such a thing as taking a good thing to far. Making a house nearly completely sealed and air tight is one of them. A house needs to be able to breathe. Fresh clean air in and the exhaust out. On the new stove instructions it talks about "You may have to connect to a outside air source." If my house was that sealed I would be looking at installing some air intake ports along the floor and some exhaust ports along the eaves or through the roof. I am big on screened floor or base board vents, ceiling fans, vented roof caps, wall vents in lofts and attics and old school attic fans that pull hot air out and cool air up through those floor and base board grates, passive cooling at night without having to run AC is a good thing. Don't need or want a wind tunnel just a light barely not even really noticeable draft will do. Seeing more new places with windows that done even open! I am not very good at living under other peoples rules and feel way to cramped under their thumbs. Not saying a lot of the codes are all bad as they are simply best practice. Not a lot of ways to build load bearing walls that won't collapse under the weight. It never ceases to amaze me how many people wire into the breaker box correctly then wire a outlet up white to brass and black to silver or can't grasp turd water flows down hill not up, unless you are using a lift pump and doesn't flow down hill very far without vent pipes to relieve the suction. Not knocking folks for not knowing, we had shop class when I was 6th-7th and 88th grade that was mandatory and they taught all of this at a basic level. Could not pass the 8th grade class without wiring a wall with 2 outlets on a circuit and a single switch ceiling light. And installing a toilet, sink and shower in the bathroom model that flushed, drained, and filled with zero leaks. Guess they stopped teaching that in school long ago. Of course a lot of that stuff was also learned at home because it was common knowledge even in town back then. Now its like some mystical sorcery to sit a toilet down on a wax ring and bolt it down and everyone has to call the Poop Fairy to come do it. I won't even call it stupidity it is in my belief intentional ignorance to make people as dependent as they can be made. Hell how many people don't even grasp the 3 basic elements to making fire now days.... and that if you want a nice warm fire and not a smouldering pile of charred wood...... The FIRE HAS TO BREATHE! It annoys me to no end that Federal, State and Local Governments foster dependence and ignorance and punish knowledge and ability that they do not hold dominion over.
I'm shore with ya on them building inspectors , and the power they try to flex sometimes . I've dealt with a few that believe they walk on water ,, and a good many that will listen to reason if they find something they don't like . It's hit and miss with them guys , and gals . Your projects look great , and pretty well thought out ,, it is definetly a satisfying feeling being able to do and see your work benefit yourself for a change . Congrats to ya ,, and I hope Mrs. Krap is doing well .
Where I would run into inspector problems would be the ceiling joist/rafters, the codes seem to like 2x8s and 2x10s for that that application. I am spanning a 10' wide center on half and a 12' wide center on the other half. Single 2x6s on 16 inch centers would be fine for those spans. I am actually overkill using sistered/doubled 2x6s even using white pine. White Pine was all I could find in the volume I needed unless I wanted to go up to laminated So I decided on take the safe route and doubling them all and tripling where there would be higher stress on the loft floors. Other thing I am fighting is height. LOL I am 6' 3" every half inch of height I add puts my head closer to the bust it zone 2x8s only would add 2" to the floor to ceiling in the loft but when you only have 7' of height to work with 2" is A LOT!
It used to take a 5th of good hooch to get the building inspector off that azz. Probably a dozen eggs and a jug of Crown would make one golden?
When the house is done I will be moving out of the Krap Kave into my new corner office in the house. So I sat down to see what my view to the South and West was going to be like. When full and scraped out the big ponds South tail will end about where that half of a hay ring is laying. Hehe part of the pond I just didn't have time to finish in 2022. The trees in the low spot are coming down and the stumps pushed out next summer. Looks like I will have a real nice view to the West of the big pond from here. The bare dirt is my loop around the house. It actually has a solid base 8" deep of 3" rock just under the dirt LOL it just got pushed in and slowly covered with dirt over the years. Need to get a couple of loads of road pack spread on it and raise it up 2-3 inches and put a culvert in to drain the road and roof run off water. Much easier to loop a 30' goose neck around than back up, pull up, back up and finally get turned around Looking due South. Nope I am not going to keep the old hog farrowing barn! Don't want the flies and pig aroma 30 feet down wind from my office or the house for that matter. A LOT of little porkers were born and weaned in that little barn over the last 15 years. Those big sows played hell on that hip though. Going to tear the hip and its 4 farrowing stalls out and keep the main barn. Will close the sides up with new 1" lumber when I get the new mill. Will just be a 18Wx32L x8T Little barn then. SW View And another SW view from a different window. Past the trees is the old pig nursery pasture where Sows taught the little ones to forage and let them get big enough to move out onto the main pastures and not get squished or eaten by the big hogs in the main herd. A 4 acre fenced in rectangle. If what I am working on comes to pass that 4 acres will be a solar garden by this time next year and considerable bigger than 40kw. Looks like I might have a halfway decent view of the lake when it is filled as well. That is the lake dam in the distance. Probably the best pic of the lake dam I have taken to show just how big and long that dam is. LOL every other picture has made look not very tall or very long. Yep I think I am going to enjoy my office view of things!
Another town run today to sooth my absolute rage that was building with Anderson EASY INSTALL storm doors for the house. Easy Install my hairy ass! I miss the days of it being framed, hung and if you bought a 36" storm door for a 36" framed exterior door frame you just took it out of the box maneuvered it into the frame shimmed it as needed, screwed it down to the frame, installed latch, and piston or spring to pull it shut and were done in about 30 minutes if you were slow. I was in my 3rd hour of the first of 3 doors trying to figure out how to put the 40 various parts and pieces together, because there were instructions in 5 different languages but none in English............. Then we came to the latch and having to drill the holes in the door for the handle and lock hardware and not having a 13/16ths hole saw or drill bit. WHY IN THE HELL ARE THESE NO LONGER PRE DRILLED OUT AT THE FACTORY!!!! At that point the urge was strong to rip it all out throw the junk on the junk pile and start over with the simple wood screen doors and hinges with weather stripping around the doors! Mrs Krap suggested that I just put a bucket up against the door to keep it closed and that we go to town and get the cheap temp counter tops for the kitchen. And pick up a small hole saw kit and restock my big drill bits. I knew she had more on her mind that Counter tops and hole saws when she suggested that we take the box truck I needed head North today anyway to pick up a 1000 pounds of special feed for a critter at the elevator anyway and the Box stores are only 15 miles farther than the Elevator and I never miss a chance to terrorize Mrs Krap by driving the 10' 2" box truck Under the 10' 6" RR Underpass on the back road to the elevator LOL ever since she saw a 13' 6" Big Box Truck nicely wedged in that underpass and the box ripped halfway to center she worried about my little box truck making it under it So we get to the elevator and my feed is on the dock, I ordered it and paid for it last Thursday so just a matter of pull in bump the dock toss it on and go. LOL I always know who made my order and bagged it, this was a a Marion Job because why only put 100 pounds of feed in a bag when when you can squeeze 175 pounds into the bag Usually I get 2000# bulk bags 3-5 at a time depending on which truck and trailer I take. But special critter and special feed needs so small bag for its orders. Make it to the Box store and it took less than 5 minutes to see the motivation for the trip was indeed not cooling my door rage or counter tops It was really about a Dishwasher, a new gas range and a big double fridge/freezer, a toilet, a vanity and a tub/shower. I was advised in no uncertain terms that my old gas range and giant bathtub were NOT moving into the new house LOL. Don't know how anyone can hate a big commercial 8 burner top and 9 cu ft convection oven bottom stove or 3' x7' 30" iron tub with 16 potent water jets in it. Ok they are kind of big, heavy and take up a lot space but at least I am allowed to keep them........ Just not in the new house I like regular fridges with a freezer box on top and not so much these giant stainless double wides with freezer drawers on the bottom......... and their $3,000+ price tags! I like ice cube trays not ice makers and cold water dispensers....... or having to run a water line to a fridge. Guess I will be running a water line to the monstrosity I did prevail in the garbage disposal in the sink thing! We ain't sending that chopped up crap to the septic tank! In the scrap bucket and to the pig or a compost pile works just fine!!! I was allowed to pick the new gas range and went with this one. It was a price I could live with, decent quality and the most basic and up on inspection the easiest to modify to work without electric I do most of my cooking in the outdoor kitchen with propane and wood or on the wood stove inside. So no need to a expensive range in the indoor kitchen. The only reason I have to two big commercial ranges is I picked them up $1000 for the pair from a bankrupt restaurant aution and they were NASTY with layers of baked on jellied grease and a decades worth of entrapped roaches. Today I still wonder if cleaning all of that funk from them was worth it! but ranges like those two run $9000-$10,000 per new....... so I guess $500 per for them being encased in cubes of jellied grease and cockroaches was worth it....... Anyway this new one will work for me and takes up a lot less space than 68 inches of commercial range. https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-5-Burne...ss-Steel-Common-30-in-Actual-30-in/1000309773 Finally got to what we were actually there for I went with this cheap Krap for the temp counter tops. I am custom building all of the cabinets and going to use Gnarly post oak slabs for the Perm Counter tops. After I finally get those gnarly logs milled into the slabs it will take them a solid 14-16 Months to dry down and cure properly before I can go to work on them making the counter tops. Post oak is very dense and takes forever to dry out on the thick slabs, but well worth the wait. This cheap formica laminate garbage will work during the waiting period. Ordered a 120" x 48" one for the Bar/Dining table top as well. That will ultimately be a pair of 28" Pecan slabs jointed together and sealed in clear epoxy for a 56" wide Bar/table. It is going to take 2 -2.5 years for me to finish all the Custom work in the house. LOL so I am putting temp krap on that will function during that time and will replace it as I go. So I am not shooting for high quality or great looking on a lot of stuff that is just going to start being removed and replaced at the Oak, Hickory and Pecan drys down and cures and becomes workable and usuable without shrinkage still going on. https://www.lowes.com/pd/VT-Dimensi...-Straight-Laminate-Kitchen-Countertop/4757635 So We came home with a Box full of appliances and 1000 pounds of critter feed. Oooo and I stopped by Harbor freight and I got another of the Yukon 9 drawer tool boxes on casters. LOL this makes number 6. I built the drawer and cabinet models into the food trailers for cabinet, drawer and counter tops. This is the first one that will actually be used as a tool box.. First 4 I bought in like 2018 and they were $199 today they are $420. And me and my mouth......... All of the other ones are Black the one I got today is Red. Mrs Krap asked why Red. Just as I answered a group of black people were passing behind me as I said "To keep it separated from all of the Blacks." And from behind me I hear "Excuse ME!" and a heated discussion about tool box race and over hearing something and jumping to conclusions without understanding the context. I think I might have said something a long the lines of "Thank God I am not getting the too, box in white you Wakandan's would have gone totally unhinged on the inherit racism of tool box color options!" Anyway Mrs Krap got me out of there before it went any further and before I somehow started a race riot in Harbor freight over the race of my new tool box. Has it really gotten that stupid now days??????
A tool box race riot ,,, That's funny there ,, But yes sir ,, I believe things are getting that bad . Just another reason to stay home,, and away from the public assholes.
Cough I still have a handful of carry guns that are not on the ban list if things get totally crazy and they are needed. That Vaquero single action has grown on me strong and fast. I brewed up some hot load 400 grain softies for him, the deformation and fragmentation on impact is most impressive and he handles the higher pressures like a champ and didn't blow apart in my hand Still love my other armpit Rock Island .38spl with the Hornady Critical Defense Hollow points and God knows I have collected enough Rock Island 200s now LOL everytime I open a drawer or a cabinet I seem to find one....... More than I have bought in fact. It Seems Mrs. Krap really likes them A LOT and has stealth bought 8 herself to stash around. A LOT of friends are figuring out that their CCW is on the ban list like my 1911s I am good on magazine capacity... It is the threaded barrels that brought all but one of mine into banned territory. Good thing they are the back ups to the Wheel Guns and not my primaries
It depends on what options it has. Threaded Barrel Handguns are indeed on the Ban List. Last several 1911s I have purchased have threaded barrels.
LOL yes they are The list of banned accessories is about as long as the list of banned guns. A couple of my bolt action 3-4 round magazine rifles fall in the banned category because of aftermarket telescoping stocks and folding stocks I put on them to cut a foot off their exceptionally long lengths. A couple of the double barrel shotguns are now illegal because I put aftermarket stocks with GASP Thumb Holes on them! Most concerning part of all of this to my way of thinking is the State Police Task Force having 1 full year of unrestricted Emergency Rule making authority that by passes all of the checks and balances in the rule making process. Basically amounts to a unelected agency writing rules with the force of law and no oversight and not having to go through the process of promulgating the rules into law and by passing all due process for 12 Months.
Good day. Your story looks cool, I really like the idea of a house as I love minimalism and simpler styles.
