Hey everybody, so I am having a couple of issues with my rifle, an Enfield 2A1 Ishapore 7.62x51 NATO. Took it out the other day and was going to put a few rounds through it. About halfway through the first 10 rounds, the bolt would only close about half way. The shell was only about half in the chamber and everything was jamed up tight. This was the end of my shooting as it continued to produce the same results. Took it into my shop and gave it a look-see. Droped the mag out and emptied the shellsout of it. On doing so, a small piece of metal fell out. After looking everything over I realized that it was half of the broken extractor spring. Thinking that was probably my problem, got on line and ordered a new one from Numrich.7 days and $20 bucks later pop it in and went back to shoot some bullets! Nope, same issue, won't chamber a round!!! Jamming up just like before. After looking at it for the hundredth time, I realized that as the bolt was coming forward and stripping the shell up out of the mag, the firing pin is protruding out of the bolt face an contacting the top of the shell casing at the rim (-less) and preventing the shell from clambering. I after reading up on Enfield bolts, as I understand it, that is normal for the firing pin to protrude. So after all that long winded explanation, my question is what's broke/ wrong with it? Anyone out there with some Enfield experience have an idea?
I found this helpful when I had a firing pin problem. feeding problems The good part is a ways down in the post. Good drawings and explaining how the rifle functions. Hard to realize it at first, but that little screw, #5 in first drawing, actually prevents the firing pin from screwing in or out and changing its extension from the bolt face, without it the weapon may work over a period of time. Don't think it was a design feature, but if the firing pin of the Enfield was extended and the cartridge did load, it would fire when the bolt closed on it. A very interesting post on function of Enfield even if you don't own one. Makes you realize just how much thought went into the little details in designing a firearm and how much of a genus Mr Browning, Mr Mauser, etc really were. Read one time that during WW2 they tried to simplify the 20 mm cannon used in WW2 and found that every piece in weapon was necessary. Oerlikon 20 mm cannon - Wikipedia Don't mean to hijack thread, but the description of it being a blowback rather than locked breach and actually firing a 20 mm shell before it is fully loaded into the breach is fascinating to me. If the firing pin was extended and the cartridge would load on the Enfield then it too might fire before the bolt was fully locked. Not really a feature you want on a cam lock bolt operation. I often wonder how many times the designer of the 20 mm had to change his pants when it went boom at the wrong time before he got the timing right. Thought that one version was used on BF109, often called ME109, as well as the Japanese Zero , and another version was being used by the British and US navy to shoot at them is also interesting. DKR and all, the fact that there was a "gauge" for checking the amount the firing pin stuck out might indicate it was a thing to be checked. Not limited by a shoulder etc as how far out it stuck. Below is a video on checking the AR 15 as a comparison. AR-15 Firing Pin Protrusion - School of the American Rifle - AR Build Junkie Gun smithing or reloading can become a serious addiction, you have been warned.
Is the safety operating correctly? Had the same issue with my 2A, gave to my son (former 0311) and he said he just "stripped and cleaned it", which could mean a lot of things. I'll ask if he did something specific. As an aside, did you run a go/no go gauge test on the chamber? 2As have issues with stretch.
From your photos it is obvious that the firing pin ran forward on bolt closure. Have you checked the condition of; the cocking piece? the sear? the sear spring? the trigger? the trigger spring? do they all move freely? are any broken? I really like seeing these old "War Horses" being used. Good luck.
I think Marvin has nailed the problem. Sear is not engaging. A little quick troubleshooting. I'd be curious to see if the firing pin protruded without feeding a round. Close the bolt all the way. Is the cocking piece forward? Can it be pulled rearward and engage the sear? If it does, drop a #2 pencil down the barrel. Lift the butt 3" and bring it down firmly on the deck. Is the pencil stuck in the ceiling? If so either somebody has "lightened" the trigger by reducing sear engagement or there's so much congealed grease on the sear that it can't safely engage. If you're not comfortable repairing it, take it to someone who is. As always your mileage may vary. Only trouble I've had with 2A1's has been broken extractors and worn ejectors.
I do not have the tool for removing the firing pin, but I am going to make one from a deep well 6mm socket later tonight. The firing pin will spin when I have the bolt out and turn the cocking handle, so I am assuming the pin is not broken. I did notice that when I work the bolt and start to close it that I can inadvertently move or spin it, the cocking handle, to the side. This will then not let me close the bolt; if I were to nudge it "off track". I do not know if this is normal but I have never noticed it before.To be clear on that point, that is when the bolt is installed in the rifle and just cycled.
Bolt cocks on closing. Could still be worn or stretched parts, but if the tapered front of the firing doesn't fall out when you remove the bolt head it can probably be adjusted. The firing pin tool is a good investment. Let us know how it comes out.
I got my Enfield dirty at the 160th Battle of Shiloh, but a canteen of water down the barrel fixed that and then I was back to shooting Yankees!
Been there, done that! Was a Yankee killer for 15 years. Austin 's Louisiana Sharp Shooters,Company B...
Been doing this since 1986, went to 125th Shiloh and joined-up shortly afterwards. I have been in the 19th Alabama Inf., 16th Alabama Inf., 26th Mississippi Inf., 9th Texas Inf., and am now a member of the 18th Alabama Inf. Regiment. I was in Pickett's Charge in Ted Turner's movie "Gettysburg", and had to take several years off to deal with family and business. Much of the equipment that I purchased 35 years ago is still in good shape, even my brogans, but my uniform shrunk! A new uniform set me back a pretty penny. Sure am glad that I kept my 1853 Enfield, I paid $299 for it NIB all those years ago...now they cost $1200!! On to Resaca!
Reenacting is the hardest thing I ever done for fun! In all these years, I have never live fired my 1853 Enfield! And ya know what, my uniform shrunk too!
So I got a 6mm deep well socket. Made the cuts in it to fit the firing pin and took out the F/P. As I suspected, it's fine.pin and spring are clean, no gunk or build up.I did realize what I suspected, the cocking hammer that was spinning around so loosely is broke. The little steel guide on the underside that keeps in in place was sheared off. I had never had it off before and was unsure what it was supposed to look like. Looked it up on line to see what it looked like. Got to order one now and I'll probably pick up a new firing pin and spring as well. Put everything back together and gave the F/P a couple of extra turns out the back of the cocking handle to see if it made any difference, but the same shit. Pin still catches on the top of the shell rim. I read the F/P is suppose to have a 50 thousandth...ish? protrusion out of the bolt head face. But I am unclear if this is all the time,or only after the shell is fired. I'm sure the second one is correct as I can't see it working the other way. But I can't find where it actually says that on line and I have never had to work on an Enfield bolt gun, so I am still stumbling along. DKR the safety seems ok but I will check it out. I'll probably wind up tearing the whole rifle down now that I'm into it at the moment. Thanks for the input
Ok , so I have been thinking about my problem. I believe I know what is going on with the firing pin issue. The first time I had an issue with the rifle, two things happened at the same time. I was firing the rifle, all is ok, then rounds would not feed as stated earlier. At that time, as I was unloading and inspecting it I first noted that the cocking hammer would sort of spin around more on the bolt when the bolt was opened to the rear of the gun. I should have realized then this was my feeding problem. I did not see it till I took off the cocking handle. It looked fine to me at first, but when I finally saw a photo for a replacement one I realized that what I am calling the metal guide on the bottom part of the hammer was sheared off. I am pretty sure this is the culprit. Normally the hammer rides in a cut out slot on the underside of the bolt body. It is held in place buy the small metal guide. This under normal operational conditions should hold the firing pin recessed on the bolt face until you pull the trigger. I feel that with the guide missing, it now allows the firing pin to spring all the way forward in the bolt, thus causing the jammed rounds. So the only problem now, if I am correct, is finding a new cocking hammer. At the moment that is my new problem as I have been searching for 3 days now on line. It appears nobody has one for sale. If someone has a suggestion on any vendors, I'm all ears. I am also thinking I might be able to get a piece welded back on and with some file work, be in business. [
This piece? Numrich arms part 487650 (just type that number into the search bar) Search | Numrich Gun Parts
The one I have looks different. It has the rectangle on the back end' but after looking at Numrich description, they say it is factory org. piece for 2A1... ok. I was coming back on line to say I think I found it searching Apex Gun Parts site. While they don't have an 2A piece but they have three C/Hs for the No4 Enfield and the late version appears identical to mine. Looking at the No.5 jungle carbine it looks to also have the same one as mine. Ok, so what do you think...
