So I think I want to try cerakoting a build or two. Is it hard? Do you use a pattern or just freehand? How do you prep the firearm?
Do NOT confuse Ceracote with Duracoat, two different products. The prep for both are roughly the same, super clean. Strongly recommend digging up the procedures for Ceracote, I think it take a high temp cure, but I didn't use it for some reason, probably that cure. The Duracoat is room temp cure on a time temp range. I did a pistol with d-c, came out OK given the makeshift shop conditions I was under at the time.
I can't help with the initial question, but I'm curious about the motivation. Color change? Protective finish?
This is a really interesting subject! I've thought about sending rifle parts to a company that does nitride treatment, but haven't pursued it yet. Also, I've got a utility trailer made from an old ~1960 Chevy stepside truck bed that I'd like to treat some of the rails & bolts - Duracoat might be a good choice or maybe some ceramic bake-on solution (?).
I just wanted to try something different. I have no "camo" firearms and although i have moved away from the whole camo look (Gone more grey man) I think some of the home brew paint jobs look pretty cool. I have a build or two to sacrifice to my "itch that scratch" impulse.
Thanks for the suggestion of Duracoat. That sounds like it might be a better choice. I'll do more research.
I see a lot of rattle can paint jobs that look really good. Marines use a lot of mesh laundry bag camoflage that looks like snake skin. Few are handled enough to wear the paint off at the edges. Those that are old and worn look even better to me. The good thing about regular paint is that it can be removed if you don't like it.
Thank you hot diggity. I like the laundry bag pattern. And worn looks better to me than new in just about everything.
Let me try that line out on the wife.... Cerakote does take heat to cure properly...and it stinks up the house in a major fashion. It seems to hold up to wear well, but make sure to NOT get any on close-tolerance parts, as it may cause issues. A little spritz of rattle can paint covers those areas (which are going to get worn anyhow) easily.
I have two rifles that are Cerakoted. Very durable, but the more matt the finish the less durable. Relative gloss is directly proportional to the amount of hardener. That said, my very mat finished AR's have held up well. Prep is key - I did not do mine myself. Sandblast or otherwise remove the existing finish and remove ALL dust and remnants. Thoroughly degrease, then follow all instructions carefully. BTW there is a version that is not heat cured, and that is the version recommended for barrels and other high heat applications. Not as abrasion resistant, but very heat resistant. It's still more durable than Duracoat, though that is still a good option.
Thanks all. After considering alternate paints because of your input, I've decided cerakoting the build I wanted to do would be lipstick on a pig (I seem to be using that metaphor more often as of late. Like new racks on my old truck, new top on my Jeep Scrambler, and silly add-ons to my AR's). Rattle cans here I come. Thanks for saving me money and time y'all.
Cerokote is a very durable finish but I have only had a couple of weapons finished in it by a local service., I use Duracote frequently, mostly to touch up slight modifications to the AR platform. Black rifles are ugly to begin with, I prefer a deep Belgium Blue and oil finished walnut, but ugly has it's place too.
Also consider Brownell's Alumahyde. It's reasonably economical and likely the toughest thing that's not a ceramic or other special coating. It does require an oven to heat the parts to about 90 degrees F prior to application, so you will need to negotiate with the Mrs a bit. Dries to the touch fairly quickly, but the epoxy base takes a week to fully cure. I'd personally give it two weeks. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...re-aerosol-paints/aluma-hyde-ii-prod1117.aspx
I'll definitely check that out. But probably no oven needed. I'll just wait for spring. A few hours in the Florida sun will do the trick. lool
All Duracoat. The Russian camo paint kit for Duracoat is pretty useful. The pattern I use varies, using screen mesh and leaves from the local outdoors and stencils from cardboard I just freehand. The equipment needed is just an airbrush kit, compressor, and of course the Duracoat essentials. Smells pretty awful, takes a few hours to dry but a few days to cure. The prep is the most important, the de-greasing is crucial. Much more durable than spray paint, no doubt. It can still wear over time. I've never messed with Cerakote, would have that outsourced if I ever did decide to use it.
