I got a new fire place insert from Northern tool. I set it up out side to test fire it to burn off any oils and see what happens. It looks nice but when I close the door the fire goes out.... Looks like the only air inlets are near the top. Only way to keep it going is to keep the door cracked. Probably need to add some air holes.
you need a stove pipe on it to have a draft // my stack is 35 feet tall in house , shop /hanger is 45 ',, No pipe the stove will go out . Did you have a stack on it ? Sloth
You can not get high efficiency operation and a lot of heat and smoke up the chimney at the same time. Heat required to heat large masonry chimney hot enough to get an adequate draft, suction pulling air into fire, and low smoke flow just doesn't work out. In my limited experience a stainless steel liner with insulation around it is the way to go. Contact a good chimney man, check with friends etc as there are a lot of bad ones out there, and follow his advice. It will not be cheap, usually about $1,000 or so, but it will burn clean, be safe and save a lot of fuel. Most stoves today use an air inlet in the front to create a limited fire in the main chamber, then admits much more air in a high temp second chamber to burn all of the smoke and achieve high efficiency They then use some heat transfer method to get as much of the heat as they can out of the flue gasses and let a fairly small amount of almost particle free smoke go up the chimney. It is all one system with the chimney as important as the stove and the firewood..
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...e+matchallpartial&Ns=P-Price|1||P-SalesRank|1 Seems its not for wood ,, Got me , S
@oil pan 4 can ya please post what kinda unit ya got? the title says it is wood? not a fireplace expert, however methinks the insert must be installed in the fireplace to werk properly, it may not werk very well or at all without a fireplace .. .. modifications might have unintended side effects and might be hazardous to yer health .. ..
When I had our insert replaced (warranty due to a cracked door hinge), the manufacturer sent a couple guys to do the work. The ancient codger in charge absolutely insisted that a modern, HE insert needed triple wall run up the masonry flue to function correctly. His reasoning was that the cold mass and chaotic gas flow in a wood burning fireplace dramatically inhibited proper drafting. End result is that the thing burns great, "sipping" at the fuel load vs. a roaring dragon, takes forever to get the masonry hot, but the flue pipe has never needed cleaning in three years. Very different when compared to the 30 year old Vermont Casting air-tight in the shop.
Real issue for a Modern Designed Fireplace in a modern home is “Where does the combustion air come from?” Inside Air or Outside Air... For best efficiency you really want to have Outside Air being used for combustion, but that requires an Air channel to the outside being designed into the building from the get-go.. This improves drafting, as well as keeping the warm inside Air inside rather than being sucked up the chimney an d expelled. For a modern Insulated home that is built tight, it is counterproductive to use inside Air for combustion, because you are lowering the Air Pressure inside the structure, by trying to pull combustion Air thru the walls, windows, and vents... Rather than thru a dedicated Air Channel from outside the insulater building... Most folks do not consider this issue when designing a house or cabin, and it is a significant issue...
I will post pics of it when I get home. I rigged up the same way for test fire ad I did fr the coal furnace and the wood stove that's jammed into the fire place hole now.
Aftermarket cluge but my Pacific Energy airtight has an opening in back for a duct with outside air. I cut a hole in the wall and put in a stovepipe setup for a pellet stove for the air. Set up for going thru wall and with a pipe going up a few feet and a cap. Before when the stove was burning I could set at kitchen table and feel the drafts coming around the kitchen window. Afterwards there were none The kitchen is much warmer since as the stove is in the living room and we don't usually run the fan on it. Don't think it would take to long to pay for the setup. Insulated pipe, tri wall or stainless with insulation around it in flue seems to be the way to go. For one thing I usually can't tell from the driveway if the stove is going, no smoke at all, neighbor has a good last generation stove, alnighter, and there is always some smoke coming out of it when it is going.
I have the same make , largest they make , my problem was im on a slab , so i had to use 4" feed pipe up the wall and to the attic , to get a outside draft feed , outer roof has the intake looks like a roof vent if it was not under the Solar array . Sloth
Taking combustion air from the attic is a very good idea. Bear in mind that the flue should be well away from the attic vents. CS hasn't a code problem, but in the US there are some regulations, especially regarding cross sectional area of the intake as related to the BTU output.
My intake is outside on the wind-age side under the solar array , while my Attic vents are on the leeward side of the roof. Sofets are all around of larger than the Sq/feet of roof needed.. using a manometer of water / i get house /outside no pressure rise till wind storms , then the house is less as the wind is measured on the windward side , change valve to leeward and the house is more ..So were neutral ..This done 30 years ago on building . S Yes Anal Engineer
Our house it too air tight so I buried a piece of 4 inch PVC under ground to bring the air temp up to 50F or so before it vents into the house.
