have you ever noticed that most puli buildings and plazas have steel pipe filled with concrete? or big concrete sculptures next to the street
Ever since the Oklahoma bombing, all fed buildings have improved their security barriers for car bombs/ramming and such.
The house on a hill, and a drive that has hair pin turns leading up to it. A narrow entrance, and gate. Or A tilt up concrete retaining wall and removable stairway are your best bet .
Manual bollards (what those are called) are anywhere from $110 to $250 each. Automatic/automated is substantially more depending on whether or not you want Pneumatic or Electric, the height and the diameter. Pneumatic can run from ~$3,000 to upwards of $16,000...each, and that doesn't include your control system (no idea on prices for the control system). Haven't been able to find prices on electric bollards. Another option (again, manual) are bollards that tip down. You would, obviously, want ones that tip out from your property and not in. Those are usually secured with a padlock device of some kind. Manual bollards are going to weigh in the neighborhood of 75-100 lbs each so be sure you are capable of raising them if need be. I personally would be tuckered out after two or three unless the adrenaline was flowing. Here's a site with all kinds of bollards and actual pricing. Retractable Bollards | Bollards & Post Covers And here's one from Northern Tool and Equipment Vestil Self-Storing Bollard with Door & Lock Model# BOL-SSTOR-42-4.5 | Bollards| Northern Tool + Equipment
Realistically, With most of what we carry daily we are very limited at a response, but not down and out of a fight! Remember size and momentum are working against you! That big Cummins or Cat diesel has 800 or so pounds of rotating mass that will take time to come to a stop! Like wise, a 20 ton truck at 20 miles per hour with a dead driver ( assuming he didn't mash the loud pedal in death or shortly there after) you still end up dealing with an out of control truck that will travel 120 feet or more on smooth and level ground! Unless it's a Military truck with run flat tires, aiming a full mag at a front tire is one of the best ways to "redirect" or stop a charging truck! even if it only moves a few feet to the side, it buys you time and movement advantage!
Shot gun... Load #8, 00 buck, x2 Then slugs... The #8 will break the windshield tension and craze the glass... limiting the drivers visibility... the buck shot will then easily pierce the remaining windshield glass... followed by slug shot to the block.... will stop any non armored vehicle... YMMV
I have never tried tiny #8 on a wind shield. Will it really smash it up that well? I was thinking steel or lead #4.
Got some barns 300gr FMJ for to load up some rifle only fortyfour mags. I'm thinking break out the magnum rifle primers, drop about a 20.5 to 21gr charge of H110. As far as "going through shit" I wonder with would do better? 12 gauge soft lead slug at 1600 to 1700fps 44mag 300gr FMJ out of a rifle at 1400 to 1500fps
You could erect a barrier using wooden fence-posts, metal pipes, even reinforced concrete posts buried 3' in the ground with 2-3' above ground and spaced 4' a part. This is only going to work if you have a tractor with an auger, or teenagers able to use manual post-hole diggers. Alternately you could deploy a barrier using pieces of pre-cut angle-iron that can be bolted or welded together to form a car/truck sized caltrop or similar structure. Whatever, the barrier needs to employ the mass of Mother Earth to stop the vehicle!
When I visualize this truck it's a rented box truck. Need to let it get close and hit the driver if armed with a pistol. Rifle just allows the same shot at greater distance. Terrain and beach sand will slow or tip over a truck approaching from the street at any speed and trees, rocks and stand off porches stop them before reaching the house. Even cars that have run off the road sink into the sand and stop abruptly. Slower deliberate ramming attack could be answered with large slow moving response. 1600 FPS 1 OZ Slugs are really hard on windshields and make big holes in radiators and shatter castings that support important drive pulleys for power steering and water pump.
There's always the muzzle loader, no case capacity limits. Same 300gr FMJ 44 call bullet on top of a 150gr charge, should be good for about 2,000fps. Only good for one shot though.
Unless you have a VERY Long Barrel on the Front Stuffer, a good amount of that 150Gr of BP is going to be scattered on the Ground in front of you, unburnt..... BP Burns way to slow, for that kind of loading and Barrel Pressure doesn't effect the Burn Rate of BP, like it does for Smokeless Powders... On my 34" Green Mtn Hawkin Barrel, anything passed about 90 Grains just creates a nice Muzzle Flash, and spreads all over in front of me... This why it is almost impossible to have an OverLoad, on a BP Fired Weapon built of modern Steels.... Nice idea, though, but the Chemistry doesn't support it....
BT, have you tried any 777 compressed, or Swiss powder, slightly compressed? I know you can get about 110 to 115% over FFFg pressures out of those two powders behind the same projectiles per charge weight! .50 Cal frontstuffer 26 in barrel running 150 gr max charge of 777 gold pressure seated to about 4 pounds ( guestimated) produces 2230ish fps from a 465 gr hard cast! THAT'S SERIOUS POWER!
I usually use pyrodex, 777 or 3 pyrodex Pellets. I was getting like 2,300fps with 230gr 45cal 230gr FMJs. At 2,300fps they just fragment. Almost no difference between FMJ and HP at those speeds.