Wick too short to pick up fuel? I knew about sewing a new wick to an old one, but I'd never seen this before.
Nope. I always used Dad's method of securing the barn door with big C-clamps. This would be just the thing if you had to go in and out a lot. ... besides, if I'd made it it would be either in steel plate or polished stainless tubing.
That's a neat trick, but if I have to launch a ball I'd prefer holding a big stove pipe with a beach ball stuffed in it over the stack of a trailer mounted stationary engine just before the RPM drop enough to fire the cylinder. (Something reasonable size, like this 40 HP National) ...or launch a softball by just grazing the bottom with a bullet. Hit just right a .30 caliber bullet will launch a regulation softball nearly out of sight!
Dang, I was hoping that he would crack the Ice, and the crack would go right under him and he would have fallen thru....
It's one of the few ballistic experiments where you can actually see the bullet spinning without high speed cameras. The rifled barrel imparts a spin on the bullet to stabilize it. If it's not completely deformed and stopped from spinning during impact with the target it will continue to spin. This spinning, coupled with high velocity is why wound channels can be so unpredictable with small rifle bullets. (you can do the same thing by shooting straight up in the air, but I wouldn't recommend it. It's hard to spot the bullets as they fall. You can usually hear them hit the ice, and they will keep spinning for quite a while, but there's the whole gravity thing. Bullet RPM Calculator — Spin & Stability within AccurateShooter.com I have seen .20 Tactical bullets disintegrate within 30 feet of the muzzle because they were spinning so fast they'd spin their bullet jackets right off. Faster bullet = slower twist.
If the generator will start on a minus 15 F morning I suppose I could use the main squeeze's hairdryer to take the edge off, but, starting the engine and letting it warm up works pretty well too.
This could be a post on how to take a good technical photograph, but I clearly failed at that. My intent was to demonstrate air hose handling. I never wrap up a hose or cord with loops that don't reach the floor. With only to loops in a 20' hose there is very little chance of a tangle. On the 50' hose I use outside I rough measure the first loop and a half, then walk that loop along the hose until the next loop meets the first. Picking up each new loop at the top as I go. When I get to the end I have a neat set of four loops ... and a problem. There's 150 PSI in the hose, and I have to hit the quick disconnect with one hand. For anybody who hasn't done it, this leaves a length of hose with a steel end free to whip whatever it can reach. Usually a shin, a knee or a $80K Cadillac. My solution for years was easy. The old connectors just needed a sleeve pulled back to release the hose. I could put one foot on the fixed end of the hose and kick the disconnect sleeve with my other foot. The discharged air would then be under my foot, and the whipping hose on the deck. Those quick releases have been replaced with safer button releases. The idea being that you have to grasp one end with your hand and press the button. That still let's the free end of the hose whip around, and still blasts you with the expelled pressure. The fix is another two footer. One on fixed end behind the release. This foot rolls the hose button up, while the other steps on a length of the recovered hose that you lay across the button to step on. Keeps me safe, clean, dry, and speedy. Most important my hose is working for me, rather than fighting me
Weak/worn plastic won't hold sun visor without rattles. Just needs a touch more tension. Foam provides it. Maintains factory appearance.
Not so much a trick as a bit of comfort. I have these gardners pads on all my lifts. Keep me clean and dry, and saves my knees when working under a dash of seat.