Who keeps a loaded trailer loaded and ready to go? I know one person that keeps a trailer ready to go with food, water, full propane cylinders, spare tire but he refuses to keep tools, guns and ammo on account of the camper may be broken into and the guns and tools stolen or someone might drive off with the entire camper. He figures if it's easy too hitch up and go then anyone can hitch up and drive off with it.
That is easy to remidy OP4...Just take a 2” Ball put it in the Trailer Hitch, and then put a Paddle Lock thru the hitch.... No one can hock up to the Trailer with a Ball Locked in the Hitch...
They'll just come drag your trailer onto a larger trailer. We had lots of trailers stolen from work. One with a whole pressure washing rig and tank on it. Keeping the trailers in the barn and out of sight seems to be the best solution.
I figured by building mine rather poorly looking, though it's tough as a Sherman tank . At the time I over engineered it for the way trailers are typically made. Tubular steel through out 3/8" ply wood 2x6 floors and aluminum over that . It is no show piece but it's functional .that's all that matters to me. the one mistake is not starting with 3 axils , but for the time it I built it two were sufficient. I have made only a few modifications since it's first build ,priorities I now have established but difficult to implement . If you only have a half a dozen skills then it's not hard to live with out certain luxuries the problem becomes that as you gather more skills and tools to match those skills ,bench top becomes tool box . Especially in a confined space organization is especially important ,but the way it is organized has it's challenges . If you have electrical in a box thee are a lot of other tools that cross over to other jobs, so your box of electrical might well have duplicates of tools you have in other boxes as well, because when you go to do a job ,you don't want to be running back an forth after tools . I have boxes of test equipment that range a wide verity of things . lathes welders, drill press ,sanders, vises, air compressors, generators , torches and tanks , bridge crane,press , it get's crowded . In the beginning I drew plans over and over trying to redistribute the load and the priorities against all the years of working in shops all my life up to that point I began building 40 years ago. The thing about building a trailer is, having a vehicle that will handle it fully loaded , and that is something you don't know till you are in that situation. My 67 cheve has a 350 and a 350 automatic transmission. Quite capable of handling the load at sea level, however at altitude it gets tricky. you can loose up to 15% to 20 % of your horse power in that thinner atmosphere 7000feet . If you don't factor this in , you could find your self in some pretty sticky situations. This is where temperature gages in unusual places pay off no one else ever thinks about till it's too late . What is the priority of your investment / food, water, meds, then take refrigeration seriously and build accordingly . I have my solar and wind on the roof of the trailer and the battery bank below deck, Distribute your weight thoughtfully and the heaviest stuff low as possible. think about making turns and sudden stops and even impacts from other vehicles . Spare tires and fire extinguishers . lighting both inside and out, jacks and supporting the trailer doing work or being parked. Post SHTF there will be no insurance company to hold your hand ,in the middle of no where your on your own.
If you increase the compression ratio on the 67 chevy 350 would this compensate for the 15/20% hp that your loosing at 7000 feet?
Afraid not. At altitude you get less air no matter what you do. Increase the compression ratio will increase available whatever, but no more so than at sea level.
From what i'm reading only an electric truck would be unaffected by altitude, Sounds like a new project for some!
Nope. The same fall off in power or torque happens with increasing altitude. Turbo boost is what it is, from sea level to the top of Everest.
I can manually turn up my boost as I go up a mountain compensating for thin air. At sea level I like to keep it under 10psi, 4000ft 13psi and all I can get at 7000ft and up which is usually 15psi.
Sure. And you do that to limit MEP to safe levels, say to keep the heads on the block for a long time. Crank it to 15psi all the time, the effects will be dramatically shortened rebuild intervals. But that is not the question. All else held equal, increasing compression ratio will not help any more at high altitude than it does at sea level. "There is no replacement for displacement."
It's a diesel engine. I have ran it at 8 to 10psi for nearly 24 hours straight driving cross country pulling a trailer, it occasionally saw up to 22psi.
My 350 does jut fine on the flat and with most mountain roads , but the have been a few that I needed just a little help this one in particular does it to a lot of trucks . Turbo are good for trucks that haul heavy loads all the time , this truck is fine for most jobs , it the load on that particular hill that was the eye opener. Still , that fact remains ,know your limitations .
You guys are in to big of a hurry.... You don’t need all that HP... Just down shift a Gear, and take your time going up those Long UpHill Grades... No need to burn fuel at 10MPG @ 65MPH, when you can pull the same hill at 15MPG @ 45MPH.. We averaged 20MPG with the 2006 White Toyota 4X4 PickupTruck w/ Nice little 4 Cyl Init...crusing mostly at 70MPH.. on the Flats... on our 5200 mile RoadTrip, in April ‘18....