So you think you can walk to the woods and live! Explicit Photos You have been warned.

I have this on another spot regarding Gardens.

But it also applies to general survival and care of your live stock.

This trap has caught 3 kits and one big Racoon at the same time. A full grown Buzzard once managed to catch its self in this trap.

This is my small Racoon Cage, I am working on a larger one.

The bait is a fish product and is wired to the bottom of the cage below the trip pan.




The cage as it sets ready, baited and ready to be finished for this set.



Always stake or tie your cage to the ground. Racoons will roll and tumble and you will find your trap empty when you return.



Just to give you an idea of what a real Racoon trap is.



Quick cover for now. Maybe something besides a Racoon will show up!


HK_User, Yesterday at 7:40 PM Edit Delete Report
#57 + Quote Reply

 

Now , as of this AM, we have one less Racoon and good bait too for Yotes!

 

The Racoon Trap has been very busy. This move of trapping out the imbalance of small predators is part of a plan to reduce the number of small predators that attract the larger predators. Since the smaller predators will also trip the larger traps it is a good move to trap them and to do so in an area way from the larger trap.

It is believed that I have provided a too rich predator bait and was suggested that I reduce that bait, I have. The drought is a factor in this since I have a number of water sources for the cattle.

Below is the new set of a large predator trap.

The trap was set in this location after reviewing a number of Trail cams.

Easy work with BEAR made Monkey Tools!

HK

 

I slide by the trap site this AM, stayed some 20 yards away and noted that something had circled the trap and moved about half of the cut branches from the front. That's good, now they may feel a bit safer. I'll re-bait the trap later today and check again tomorrow.

This was not the best place to put this trap, just a well worn trail in front of where I placed it, but another location 50 yards away is a really good sign of large animals crossing under a fence. But I have found that getting them to trust a trap is the best move and then when that happens I can place the trap closer to their choice spots.

For now I am baiting with sardines placed under the trap and under the trip pan.

Later when static bait no longer works I will add a live chicken in a secure pen, but that will be closer to the house so I can feed the chicken each day. The chicken will be in a secure 12 x 12 x 12 inch purpose built cage. I will build a 2 x 2 x 2 foot cover for the rear of the trap. This requires the predator only see the bait from the entry and to enter the trap to get at the bait but protects the bait from the elements. The bait will be in a secure wire cage firmly attached to the main trap.

No live chickens will be harmed.

HK

 

I really enjoy your thread and pictures. @HK_User you certainly have lots of wild critters on your farm/ranch that keep you busy.

 

I too, enjoy the hunt.

 

Thanks MM34, one of the most difficult parts of this is not harming neighbors pets. One of the reasons I use box traps. In the past, in other areas, I really like the use of snares. Snares are the most useful tool you can have in predator control, often they do not require any bait and if you are trapping for control v furs then you need only check them every 3 days. Problem is they are not selective and they solve what might be a temporary problem in a rather permanent manner.

 

All traps and snare here must be checked daily, and snares have a minimum size and stop locks to prevent "permanent solutions". All the snares I was taught to set are quick kills.

 

Stop locks? Sounds like a good way to loose game. I have used one way slide locks, but that was in a drowning trap.

 

http://wildlife.ohiodnr.gov/hunting...ing-trapping-regulations/trapping-regulations
Trappers CAN:
Set, use and maintain snares for the purpose of taking furbearing animals. All snares must have a relaxing lock and a stop to prevent the opening of the snare from closing to a diameter of less than 2 1/2 inches in diameter, or a relaxing lock system with a breaking point of no greater than 350 pounds.
Attach a drag to a foothold trap.
Trap coyotes without a fur taker permit. However, anyone hunting, trapping or snaring coyotes must have a valid hunting license.

Trappers CANNOT:
Pursue, hunt, trap or snare furbearing animals between sunset and sunrise without use of a continuous white light visible for at least a quarter of a mile. However, persons hunting fox, coyote or raccoon with a call from a stationary position may use a continuous single beam light of any color. When two or more people are hunting or trapping together for these animals only one light is required and can be carried by any member of the party.
Use or possess climbers, or any other device, except climbing tree stands, that can be used for climbing trees while hunting, trapping or pursuing furbearing animals.
Set, use or maintain a trap or snare to take a wild animal, unless that trap or snare has attached to it a durable, waterproof tag bearing the name and mailing address or the unique Division of Wildlife customer I.D. number of the user in English letters that are legible at all times, or which has the name and mailing address or the unique Division of Wildlife customer I.D. number of the user stamped into the trap in English letters that are legible at all times.
Set, use or maintain a trap or snare in or upon any cart or wagon road, or in or upon any path ordinarily used by domestic animals or human beings.
Attach a snare to a drag. Snares must be staked or otherwise attached to an immovable object.
Set, use or maintain a snare on public hunting areas, except for beaver and river otter (see Beaver and River Otter Trapping regulations).
Use any snare constructed of any material other than multi-strand steel cable.
Set a snare with a loop diameter of more than 15 inches.
Have attached to a snare any spring-loaded or mechanical device to assist the snare in closing.
Set, use or maintain any snare that does not comply with the requirements listed above.
Set traps on state public hunting areas, including state parks and state forests for a beaver or river otter without a permit (see Beaver and River Otter Trapping regulations).
Erect, post or place any stake, flagging or any other type of marker for the purpose of identifying a potential trap set location on any area designated as a public hunting area, unless authorized by the chief of the Ohio Division of Wildlife.
Set, use or maintain a foot-encapsulating trap that has an opening greater than 2 inches in diameter or 2 inches along one side.

 

Sounds like a real Tree Hugger State.

On my own place exterminating predators is a whole 'nother deal. One of the reasons I have box traps and a boat load of pictures in a file to prove my loss. Trapped animals for now are going for turtle food. Should a nice pelt arrive I'll take it in consideration as to what I do next.

I might add, the subcutaneous blood seen on at least one of the cows is a sure indication the heart was beating when the animal died.

 

Temps dropped and a front blew in last night. A sure sign that the animals would not be moving.

Inspection of the traps this AM confirmed that thought.

The pictures are from yesterday and the baiting of the traps.

 

We must be doing something right!

No Trail Cam Pictures of varmints for 6 days. Trail cams are nice but they are a bit expensive to place in the majority of locations around the place.

So, today I placed brush or other obstructions in trail's choke points that have been active in the past. I started this yesterday and have a couple of pictures of the results and I'll post those and the newest tomorrow. This is effective as a way to know how large a varmint is (in general) and if reset each day it provides a key on where to move and place the Trail Cams and traps.

We do know that "OTHERS" in the area have had problems and removed some of the problems with extreme prejudice.

I thought I was missing a cow this AM, so I started walking to where they bed down. Low and behold here comes a Momma Cow over the hill with a new calf. Let's just hope we can keep it alive until it learns the ropes of survival in the fairy tale world of a Disney Land Ranch. Pictures tomorrow.

HK

 

Re-baited traps with Bacon. Bacon at the front, then in the middle on the bottom of the trap and a "hanger" of bacon over the trip pan.

Warm now and ants will strip the bait from the containers under the cage in one day unless you hang it from the wire wrapped frame.

One step at a time to see what works best. Change as the "subjects" change.

 

Oh my God....you'll catch @ditch witch !

 

Did you make sure that @ditch witch is not in town?

 

If she can beat the Yotes to the bait then she deserves it.

Thick sliced at that.

 

She might beat the yotes FOR the bait...

 

What kind of sicko puts bacon in a cage???

SMS sent from my android

 

You don't want it to escape now do you?