If you have access to a pre 1940's early 50's house that is being torn down and can salvage real 2 X 4 through 2 X 12's made from old growth timber versus genetically engineered (weaker) fast growing pine, in good condition it is far better than what you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes. I picked up a bunch of unplanned 2 X 4 and 2 X 6' from a house built in 1923 that are incredible.
I saw a couple of the mini houses on wheels at the expo. After seeing the price and how it's built. Pretty sure a handy man/woman could build one for less than half/ trailer included.
I grew up in a house that was built in 1917. Some of the plaster had deteriorated and exposed the studs in the walls under the lath. They were very rough sawn oak and they were not 2x4. They were much larger. I don't know how they attached the lath, but there was no such thing as driving a nail into that stuff. Maybe they had tougher nails in those days.
They are catching-on everywhere. I've actually been thinking about getting into the business just for the heckuvit. The big expense is the suspension system, the axles, frame, tires and rims, etc.
http://www.grancrete.net/ Frame it, put in ridif foam to make a 'wall' - spray on the Grancrete - dries in under 30 min. Paint or stucco. Move in. The Grancrete family of products solves tough problems due to unique characteristics: Strong — between 6,000 & 8,000 PSI Short curing time — ~15 to 20 minutes pH Tolerant — 3 to 11 Impervious to water, including salt water Cures under water Bonds to all surfaces except glass and plastics Does not expand or contract Will not burn — tolerates temperatures > 2,200°F Sets in cold temperatures — < 30°F Long life span — > 100 years Sprayed, Poured, Troweled, or Painted THe only thing this stuff won't do is pay your taxes.....
Those cost as much as the 1600' I live in. Think I'll live in the closet this weekend and see how it feels.
I have a small cabin up here in north Idaho. Here are couple of tips to think about with a small place especially with a loft in cold country. Id use the loft for storage. With whatever you use for heat, keep in mind that 68 or 70 degrees at eye level and below will be 85 or more in the loft. Way better for storage then sleeping. As you get older you will want to minimize the number of times you have to go up and down those steps.
In a small Cabin, with an Insulated Loft, one thing to do is put your Domestic Water Supply, up in the loft.... This gives you Gravity Fed Water, and as long as you keep the cabin interior above 35F, you will always have liquid water.... You can also put Copper Water Coils in your Cabin Heat Source, and have Running Hot & Cold Domestic Water, using a Thermal-Syphon System that has NO MOVING PARTS.... It actually costs you nothing in Heating BTUs, as any BTUs that get used to heat the Hot Water, are still inside the Insulated Cabin, and contribute to the Inside Cabin Air Heating, by adding Surface Area to that Inside Cabin Air.
