Getting a tree cut while leaving plenty of height on what's left isn't easy, nor is it for amateurs, unless you're me of course, one who who flies by feel not by wire. I don't do it this method anymore though, I have a comealong / powerpull to complete the fall of the tree that does the nasty part.
What is the Point of leaving the bottom 10' of the Tree, Standing? Why not just cut the whole thing down in the first place? I could see it, if one were building a Treehouse up there, but with just two trees in the close area that doesn't seem to be the case. Real Loggers only top Spar Trees, and then they are 50-60 Ft up, and are using Spurs, and a Climbing Belt. Explain.....
Only in the short term. No leaves, means no life. It would be rotting in months, and falling under load in a year.
Much better to just drill a 2" hole 1' deep in the stump, and stuff a 20' 2" PVC Pipe in it t hold up the antenna end.... AND Burn the Tree for Firewood....
We had to take out a big Oak near our church buildings. It was 40' to the first limb. I took out a couple of limbs that were "levering" it the wrong way. Hooked up a 75' cable just above the first limb and put a truck on it. The trunk was so big that I had to cut a big chunk out plus the relief wedge. One of the "know it alls" said the tree was going to hit the church. Told him to lay his cap out on the lawn where he thought the tree should fall. When I cut the back the tree buried his cap---much to my glee. Was surprised when the tree fell as the "hinge" looked perfect. It was a consistent 2" all the way across. It heated the home and several others all winter. A bud came over with his new stump grinder and it disappeared providing shavings for the play ground.
Hey guys, this is just the start of developing my Ryder's Redoubt up at the Mountain Hold! The reason for the large stump several. I can attach things to it and eventually build a large porch / courtyard. I'll be using the area for takeoff and landing of flying machines. With a covered shelter overhead it'll keep the elements down. The main reason is for running cables off for lifting up the ridge beams and purlins etc.
That's no good, it'll ruin the aesthetics. Part of the wood will be going into the cabin construction though.
Yeah, but like over a fifty to a hundred years maybe. Unless it's insect ridden of course. I can't put a post there until then. Unless you want to come up and try and dig the root out lol. That dead tree has been in place for decades and shows no sign of falling so months it is not. There's no branches that take the snow load as it's dead and the branches are like 30 ft high. Leaving it at full height DOES mean it's vulnerable to the high winds though which can send them over. Typically the tree casualties over winter are old full-sized trees being blown over, and new trees with too much snow load and wind etc. On my land none of the trees that have been sent over naturally fall outside that rubicon.
Good luck with it. Local climate will make a diffrence, but it is the moisture content, and the resins and such that determine decay rates. Dead Trees as Resources for Forest Wildlife, W-18-04 As for the rootball, yes, I take that out as well, when I drop most trees. I use come-alongs from two directions, and cut the surface roots, and it will roll over just where I want it. Using the tree itself as a lever against the rootball, will do the work of pulling the stump. If I am dropping several trees, by dropping the largest over the trunk of another tree will create a fulcrum that will lift the entire rootball free of the earth for cutting. But do it your own way.
This is a tree zone at 9,500 feet high. There are no surface roots on this tree, they go pretty deep too. Not exposed as it were
Not all rootball's are simple.... out here they can be quite significant!! By the way @kellory , I found a pic of you and your stump removal technique....
When I do "Stump Removal" the only thing left is a "Smok'en Hole in the Ground"..... and a lot of "ToothPicks".....
We do NOT use BP, for stumps, and such... Way to expensive.... "Rack-A-Rock" is cheap to make, has very good Energy Ratio, good Safety/Sensitivity Ratio, and smells like Cherries... Couple of Pounds will deal with most stumps with ease, and not scatter the "ToothPicks" over God's Half-Acre.... And no Booster, Required.....
I'm not being funny but that sounds more difficult to make being as you have to mix two chemicals together at 20% and 80% ratios. Also AFAIK BP does not require a booster charge, only the big stuff needs that.