There is a new hybrid of bees starting to be introduced. "Mite Biters" as they were breed for their grooming habits of biting mites off and significantly reducing the deleterious effect of an infestation. Much of this work was done at Purdue University. I picked up two nucs this weekend the keeper told me were queens he reared from hybrids he obtained from Purdue last year that were a combination of those breed at Purdue and also at Ohio State for their mite-resistance and wintering qualities. I will see how these go and hopefully propagate some colonies next year with queens from these. You can also participate in Purdue's research and do a blind study with two free queens (donations accepted) to compare. http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/beehive/ There is a good book that came out recently that notes that many beginning keepers that gave up did so because of mites. Good book, I recommend it (bought it for my daughter and I'm learning a good bit from it) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/159253919X/ref=s9_newr_gw_d42_g14_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-7&pf_rd_r=0PAPTKGWMD6WPCN8MVSW&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200482&pf_rd_i=507846 So, to help the beginner along, maybe seek out these breeds for one's first hives. AT
I think you might want to look up the honey and children again. Salmonella and about any other bacteria will not grow in honey due to the high sugar content. Sugar is hygroscopic and sucks the moisture out of bacteria killing it. However, it does NOT kill the bacteria spores. The issue with infants and honey is they have not yet developed immune system capabilities to handle botulism spores if ingested and the bacteria could spawn and grow in the intestines. Personally I see no need to ever heat honey in order to store it. As noted it has lots of important nutrients that may be compromised but if stored correctly, pasteurization or other heating yields little benefit. As noted, bacteria can't grow in the sugar and this is why it is good as an antiseptic ointment for wounds and burns. However, yeast and bacteria spores can still be present. If honey is stored uncapped, it can absorb moisture from the air. Set a small open container almost filled with honey out in a humid environment and you'll see the level increase as it absorbs moisture. The issue is if it absorbs enough the sugar concentration may reduce to the point where fermentation can begin. Pasteurization kills the yeast in the honey that was present when packaged, but it won't kill the yeast spores in the air that will contaminate it if left open. So what's the point? If/when it does crystalize in the jar, just put the jar in a pan of hot tap water for awhile and it will generally dissolve back. Concur on the extractor. I have seen some DIY plans that use a clean 30 gal poly barrel or new trash can and rig a basket and support system. Here are several simple radial extractors (first might benefit from a little more safety improvement) Radials generally need to spin a bit faster than the conventional 2 and 4 frame lateral extractors. Radials work because the cells actually angle downward a bit from the outside to the core of the comb and by installing them with the top of the comb outward, both sides can be extracted simultaneously. Here we go, this is a conventional lateral extractor system but still is a DIY contraption. These spin slower but only extract one side of the frame at a time. It then needs to be flipped and the other side extracted. They extract really well and better in colder temperatures when the honey is thicker. (There are faster, easier ways to uncap with a heated electric knife, than what this guy is doing, but it looks like it works.) As HK noted the benefit is the comb can be put back in the hive and the bees do not need to re-make comb saving a bunch of their energy. Have fun. AT
Someone else answered this very eloquently so I'd like to post it here: This does not necessarily mean "medicine", but there are other means to help a bee hive. This includes relocation from an unsuitable place, providing habitat, water, a hive well suited to their needs, removal of diseased neighbors, removal of disease sources (bought honey etc.). The reason you shouldn't feed honey to infants is due to botulism, not salmonella. Infant botulism: How can it be prevented? - Mayo Clinic
Here is a "local", for me, producer that has a long history of doing it right. http://www.kelleyhoney.com/ As I no longer keep bees I purchase their product locally.
As more city dwellers swarm to beekeeping, their efforts benefit the environment and the insects | The Columbus Dispatch It seems bee keeping is on the rise in my neck of the woods. I haven't made any contacts yet, but there seem to bee a thriving bee keeper population here.
I have been keeping bees for years, I DO NOT FEED or treat I have no shb traps nor do mite counts I use all medium boxes (not as heavy) I only harvest comb honey once a year (if it ain't capped the bees can keep it) I will give bees free of charge to any one that wants to come get them (the world needs more bees) pete
Almost filled up. The rest of the space (2x2x2) is totally filled top to bottom. Still haven't given them access to the honey supers.
Here are some free plans for beehives Natural Beekeeping | Horizontal Hives | Extra-deep Frames Natural Beekeeping | Horizontal Hives | Do-It-Yourself Plans This is video is of the guy who provides the free plans He has a much easier way of getting swarms than i have ever seen. He uses lemongrass essential oil in a trapping hive
An old mentor of mine keeps bees in her back yard, in a semi-rural area. She's had great success for years and always shares some of the honey around the holidays. She's even won some prizes for it at the county fair! Seems like its not too hard to maintain once its set up and if you're trying to grow some food crops near by I'm sure it would help. I think she learned how from an extension class through the ag program at the university near her if anyone is looking for in-person classes/help that might be a good place to look in your area.
