This thing can kill a Moose at a mile and a half. What kind of scope do you get to take advantage of something like that? How much do they run? The Scope, not the Moose. 1st shot in the X at 200 yrds 2nd shot still in the outer bulls eye ring 3rd Shot up on top in the 9 pretty good over all, considering it was doing almost as much dame to my shoulder as the target, All the little whole are from my 10/22 with a red dot rapid fire 10 rnds at a time. Look at the small target scoring pic top left. I couldn't even see it I just put the red dot on the black dot, and started shooting.
who wants to drag a moose from mile and a half? have It climb into the back of the truck first then shoot it.
I will never let a live Mosse that close to me. you ever see one up close? I wouldn't be dragging him anyway, I,ll get my wife to do it!!
My 1000 Yd Weapon is a DPMS AR10 with a 24" Stainless Bull Barrel.... The Optics that top the Weapon, I choose is the Burris Eliminator III... 4-16X, 55mm Objective, built-in Laser Range Finder good to 1200 Yds, and a Ballistic Projectile Drop Compensating Computer, built-in.... the Optics cost more than the Weapon...... Our Moose walk in front of the Cabin.... never a shot longer than 50Ft.... Oh well... Moose Season is over for my local... Horns will soon be on the ground, for this year.....
Burris is a name I heard before. Someone told me they make a digital scope that bore sites itself, makes adjustments with a laser range... adjusts for wind speed and direction, just program ammo type in, all from a cell phone app unfortunately I'm not paying +$2000 for a scope, What's the range on yours? That thing kicks like a horse So I want the first shot to count, after that the flinch (grit your teeth) factor kicks in.
I'm draggin to much weight around now,I'm trying to lose a little, that thing set off a car alarm at the firing range.
with the same powder charge, less weight means for kick, more weight means less kick. simple physics.
If I was to shoot a moose it would right outside the door to my house. pop em in the ear with a 357 mag. . Wont have to drag the meat that far to have it in the pan.. If you buy a big boy rifle, you best be ready to carry the weight..
"for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction". explosive kick off the charge going off, is divided by the wieght of the gun. the heavier the gun the less kick.
I bought it because I got that and a Savage 30/06 for $600. I asked him if they were powerful, he said"OHH YYEEEEAAH!!" that should have been my first clue.
Yeah, I can only get the mushrooming kind, Its more popular up in Alaska, lots of outfitters carry it for Bears. I took My 22 year old body builder son out and let him shoot it, Of course warning him never crossed my mind, the look on his face, PRICELESS!!!
Scopes all ways coast more that the rifle, if they are any good.. Well there are exceptions.. I get the sense that these may be your first ?
Depends on how it groups, regardless of terminal ballistics (what it can kill). What size group do you need for moose? 10 inches? If it only gives 1.5 inch groups at 100 meters, that limits your shots 700 and you don't need a high magnification scope. If it's 1 MOA, then you are talking a 10 inch group at 1,000 meters. For a 1.5 mile, 10 inch group, that shot group needs to be 0.375 inches center to center at 100 meters.
This thing leaves a 3/4 " hole in a plywood target going in. I think if I hit any part of any animal, any where it wouold at least lose a limb