I wanted to share some images of the sheath I made for my Condor Bushlore knife. It's actually the best sheath I made thus far, and it came out great. I made it to sheath the knife and hold a ferro rod, and I made a dangler for it, which attaches to a D-ring. The sheath can be worn normally on the belt, or with the dangler in two positions, riding low or high. I used heavy line 24 snaps and only the best leather. I used Fiebing's oil dye, like usual and treated the leather with mink oil. The sheath was wet-molded to friction fit the blade, and it withdraws smoothly and seats with a light snap. Perfect. There is slight wear, due to my using it a little.
Outstanding!... I like the dangler style and you've put together a beauty! Going first class on materials is a good idea... especially on your knife... I really like it and that you put a loop for the ferro rod... good stuff indeed.... What kind of thread and stitch did you use on this one?... I need to pick up some pine pitch to mix up with bees wax for waxing some linen thread I want to try out... Making a good sheath is not easy and you've done a great job! Thanks for sharing! B
@Bear Thank you, Bear. You are very kind. I used the standard waxed thread (black) from Tandy Leather supply and used a saddle stitch. Since I always use a perfectly formed "weld" and affix it with contact cement (DAP hardware brand), I have no need to use a double stitch like we see on some sheaths. Of course, I also use a Dremel to drill my stitch holes, so stitching isn't too hard! I start two or three holes down, work up and back down, then finish with a back stitch and knot, then pull through and cut off the ends. I also like to lightly hammer the stitch run with a rubber mallet afterward to relieve any stress from stitching and drawing the thread so tight. Then, I run across the stitch with a smooth, rounded object to sink the thread nicely. After a final buff, everything looks great. I would like to see how you fare at making your own waxed thread. It should be interesting.
Sounds like you do everything first class indeed! a dremel sure helps... I've used my drill press in the past to punch the holes... not running of course :0) The waxed thread is just Barbours 5 or 7 cord linen thread... linen is a great natural thread and can last just about forever... about at 60/40 mix of bees wax and pine pitch is an old time recipe... the pine pitch has some anti fungal and other anti "beasties" properties which help seal the stitches and preserve them over time... just rub it on with your fingers and your natural body heat works it into the thread or use a piece of leather... old time stuff... the nylon threads are probably just as good and last a good long time... Once again... beautiful work! B
Great looking work! I have been looking to make a sheath for a rather unique knife of my own. Hard to find sheaths made to fit a Yarborough.
I finished the flint & steel case for the package I received from Bear. I wanted a small case just for the flint and steel, and I plan on making a larger bag to place this into so I can also use it for storing tinder material... As you can see, it is kinda slim. I got all the hardware from Tandy Leather, and making this was actually pretty fun.
PERFECT!... had some feedback from someone who uses these to light all his fires... that it's the perfect size for belt carry... and your leather carry case is a fine example :0) Awesome work @Brokor !
@Broker, nicely done. I can't tell from the pics on my phone. Is there anything between the flint and steel to prevent contact for noise and wear?
Thanks! And the sheath is a friction-fit just for these objects. No play at all. I suppose you could jam a few bits of char cloth in there, but there is no sound and no movement. I suppose as the flint wears there may be some movement, but it's not tactical and it won't ever move enough to become annoying. Thank you very much! I want to make a bag for tinder, too.
Great idea @Brokor a tinder pouch is a good idea... not just to store pre-made stuff but to put found tinder as well.... I love your leather work... very nice... wet formed?
Yes Sir! I like wet forming when it serves a purpose. With the tinder pouch, I will make a wooden mold (slightly dome shaped) and wet form leather around it, then cut away and notch around the outside as I form the shape, leaving room for the edge to sew. I can also make a mold out of wet newspaper and glue and allow to dry...might try that route, less dust. I will have to also staple the leather down temporarily until it dries. I was debating just making a lighter pouch, like 3mm leather or lighter, and cinching the top, but that's not what I want. I have a great hinge closure I want to use on this bag, and make a shoulder carry strap, too. And thanks for the compliment! I just started really getting into leatherwork this year. I learn more with every project.
Nice @Brokor .... was thinking of making a form for the small and large altoids tins out of micarta... what size leather works the best for that? I like your attention to detail... I've got a tippman boss and a singer 99... great little machines for sewing leather and canvas... and both do manual so great control and terrific if the electricity goes out :0) Yup... seems like I learn something new with every new project and item I work on.... keeps the mind sharp, fingers nimble and builds great muscle memory :0)
Hrm, in order to make a "box" out of leather that small and retain the corners, I would go with something between 1 mm and 2.5 mm leather, or thereabouts. U.S. conversion would be about 1/32 to 3/32 weight. By ounce, would be about 2 to 5. It won't want to form around tightly no matter how long you soak it, so cutting out the far corner areas and notching helps (using a much larger piece to start with is a good idea). Patience is a virtue in this case. I don't even soak my leather, I just get it wet with a sponge until it is saturated, then go to work. Thanks! Those sewing machines sound great, too. They sure can come in handy for larger projects. All hand for now, though...one day maybe I will get something. Quite a fun hobby, leather crafting is. Leather Thickness Chart Ounce /MM /% Inch /Decimal 1 ------- 0.4 ----- 1/64 ---0.016 2 -------0.8 -----1/32 ---0.031 3 ------- 1.2 -----3/64 ---0.047 4 ------- 1.6 -----1/16 ---0.063 5 ------- 2 ------5/64 ---0.078 6 -------2.4 -----3/32 ---0.094 7 ------- 2.8 ----- 7/64 ---0.109 8 -------3.2 -----1/8 ----0.125 9 -------3.6 -----9/64 ---0.141 10 ------- 4 -----5/32 ----0.156 Diagram:
@Brokor thanks for the info and the diagrams... gonna have to try that one day... too many other projects consuming me right now :0) I do enjoy your work... if you do get a stitcher... get a manual option... sure comes in handy and I think it has better control... :0)
@Brokor... No where near as nice as your work... just some quick and dirty bullet proof horsehide sheaths for @Hanzo :0) Needs some fix n wax to seal it up :0)
@Bear those are nice! I see you used some brass rivets --those babies are super strong. I don't know if my leather work is quite as nice as you say, but I thank you for the kind words. I think a final project is only as good as the leather we start with. I try to use only the best leather, and it makes my tasks much easier! I have to get on a few projects I have put aside for the ghillie. If I can only find the elastic I've been searching for...
@Brokor actually they are copper #9 rivets and burrs... and yes they are probably the strongest for leather... you set the burr on the rivet and then have to cut the excess rivet off... leaving just enough to peen over the remaining onto the burr... very solid! oh and marine grade stainless snaps :0) You're too humble... you do very nice work... Bear
